Thursday, 7 April 2011

How to throw a party at Bordeaux 2010

Keep your speeches short. Martin Krajewski, the tow-headed proprietor of Chateau de Sours in Entre-deux-Mers, likes to entertain, and his parties are a respite from the formality of the Medoc.

De Sours is famous for its rosé and Krajewski rode high on the rosé boom of 2003. He's now got 85ha here, and 3ha Clos Cantenac in St Emilion. He’s now training up his son Matthew, who’s working in a lab in Bordeaux. He hasn’t been entrusted with a parcel of grapes and his own basket press yet, he says, but he’s done some pruning…

Anyway, we filed into the dining room – two long tables end to end – through the kitchen, which was rather nice. Krajewski stood up and clinked a glass.

Don’t you get a sinking feeling when that happens? In the Medoc you know you’re in for the long haul. I needn’t have worried. Our host said, ‘Welcome everyone. We’ve got some superb wines tonight. Enjoy yourselves,’ and sat down to applause.

The wines? A Figeac 2001, Mouton 66, Leoville-Las-Cases 82, Yquem 2002.

The Figeac was superb, powerful and perfumed with a hint of brett that got everyone swapping bottles and glasses, sniffing and arguing. The LLC (I’m going there tomorrow) was even better, with a freshness and jauntiness and a length that went on and on, indeed never stopped, unlike the Mouton which was venerable but with a touch of dryness on the finish. Yquem was Yquem, as the aficionadoes say.

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