tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49195880630253038682024-03-08T01:43:09.360-08:00Rot. by Adam LechmereAdam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-32480585843693703402023-01-23T01:50:00.003-08:002023-01-23T01:50:33.525-08:00<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj838yTYXbTdxfE49fvV_caFEeISC0bL1e0IFsfqZJesoKUnI1kR5t42VN4ryroGRAQac-xNDLyZbGIc5IFONTfqq6Uk5Jnkr4LO7UJD9wVDAuyUvvxcaBAl853Co3ke3HM7FBM19QdXHWnsrKIalBQhBkdFhJFA0VBDgpRvC2EHVOprYvqFDEKFyRf/s1024/Santenay-burgundy-1024x512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="512" data-original-width="1024" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj838yTYXbTdxfE49fvV_caFEeISC0bL1e0IFsfqZJesoKUnI1kR5t42VN4ryroGRAQac-xNDLyZbGIc5IFONTfqq6Uk5Jnkr4LO7UJD9wVDAuyUvvxcaBAl853Co3ke3HM7FBM19QdXHWnsrKIalBQhBkdFhJFA0VBDgpRvC2EHVOprYvqFDEKFyRf/s320/Santenay-burgundy-1024x512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span></p>I'm consultant editor for Club Oenologique and write almost exclusively for the magazine and website.</span><p></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"></p><p><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;">All my latest articles can be found on</span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"> </span><a href="http://clubeonologique.com/" style="color: #2288bb; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-decoration-line: none;">cluboenologique.com</a><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"> - below is a selection that might interest:</span></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/obituary-steven-spurrier-1941-2021/" target="_blank">Steven Spurrier 1941-2021 Obituary</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/burgundy-2021-wine-vintage-what-to-expect/" target="_blank">Burgundy 2021 - One thing's certain: you won't be bored<br /></a></p>Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-30431322854591530202021-12-14T09:38:00.003-08:002023-01-23T01:51:06.323-08:00<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXXiftarVSwovMhf2baWEiTfFnOgMcX6Xe_bLbjMMBH5hc3GKdpF9YCbCVz_Dl1xZ1-tc_S-dQ-Z1O4SZqS-cq7NEgpWEjPB4TVb29NIdLfBPZXlQ5UtHclV8qIwMfx1_Kki_72qdzcHcD37C_pTSTWmzUaNP3uFoEL1THDyH3TYbu3s2VTXgpYoWT=s4000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXXiftarVSwovMhf2baWEiTfFnOgMcX6Xe_bLbjMMBH5hc3GKdpF9YCbCVz_Dl1xZ1-tc_S-dQ-Z1O4SZqS-cq7NEgpWEjPB4TVb29NIdLfBPZXlQ5UtHclV8qIwMfx1_Kki_72qdzcHcD37C_pTSTWmzUaNP3uFoEL1THDyH3TYbu3s2VTXgpYoWT=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/stags-leap-winery-cabernet-sauvignon-behind-the-bottle/" target="_blank">Behind the Bottle: Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/sir-peter-michael-from-silicone-valley-to-sonoma-winemaking/" target="_blank">Sir Peter Michael: From Silicon Valley to Sonoma</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/best-books-for-food-and-drink-lovers-christmas-2021/" target="_blank">The Best Books for Food and Wine Lovers this Christmas</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/review/etna-wines-to-get-while-you-can/" target="_blank">Etna: 12 Wines</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/bolgheri-looking-beyond-the-super-tuscans/" target="_blank">Bolgheri: Looking Beyond the Super Tuscans</a></p><p>(pic DivinoBolgheri: Dinner for 1000 beneath the stars in the Viale dei Cipresi, Bolgheri)</p><p><br /></p>Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-80220858434128646592021-06-14T08:01:00.012-07:002021-07-22T09:07:21.802-07:00<p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/three-decades-of-napas-harlan-estate/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1536" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigi4E39CBmfxwrZylTFIioRHYoGrcoQzmjOibN7agsxBoNdoq6l1p005fK6worXldG3GYS3_1siorqHSXOUoTV0UZM57AGSi-0A2qFhbnC9rUCVx85nP5bgvsIIbHqojryHUmblyobASI/w469-h312/Fav_Harlan_Estate_By_Alexander_Rubin_0120-1536x1024.jpg" width="469" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />I am consultant editor for Club Oenologique and write almost exclusively for the magazine and website.<p></p><p>All my latest articles can be found on <a href="http://clubeonologique.com">cluboenologique.com</a> - below is a selection that might interest:</p><p>(please see also <a href="http://adamlechmere.pressfolios.com/">adamlechmere.pressfolios.com/</a>)</p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/obituary-steven-spurrier-1941-2021/" target="_blank">Steven Spurrier 1941-2021 - An Obituary</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/napa-valleys-stags-leap-wine-cellars-50-years-of-iron-and-velvet/" target="_blank">Stag's Leap Wine Cellars: A 50-year retrospective</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/wine-influencers-the-future-of-wine-writing/" target="_blank">Wine Influencers - the future of wine writing?</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/time-to-change-adam-lechmere-on-diversity-in-the-wine-industry/" target="_blank">Time to change - Diversity in the wine industry</a></p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/three-decades-of-napas-harlan-estate/" target="_blank">Three decades of Napa's Harlan Estate</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/have-south-african-wines-reached-collectable-status/" target="_blank">Have South Africa's wines reached collectible status?</a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/review/vin-de-constance-the-worlds-greatest-sweet-wine/" target="_blank">Vin de Constance - the world's greatest sweet wine?<br /></a></p><p><a href="https://cluboenologique.com/story/penfolds-best-winemaker-in-australia-or-a-wannabe-louis-vuitton/" target="_blank">Penfolds, its icons and Chinese fakes</a></p>Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-12206440170639237962020-04-24T02:50:00.004-07:002021-06-14T08:17:00.917-07:00"Everything I write seems to come true" - TC Boyle on tranquillity, savagery, and COVID-19<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b>T </b><b><b><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span class="xst">Coraghessan </span></span></b> Boyle</b> is one of America’s most prolific and acclaimed
writers. Now in his early 70s, he has written 17 novels and more than 100 short
stories. Many of them, like his 2000 story <i>After the Plague</i>, are of an
apocalyptic nature. "Everything I write seems to come true," he told me. In <i>Jubilation</i>,
for example, residents of a gated community have to don protective gear when it’s
afflicted with various infestations. "It was Vicki, dressed like a beekeeper…'Christ,'
I said… 'Is this what we’re going to have to start wearing now?'" </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XbiYuAJCySGu_57QWWf-3tjFUMzjkhZsjSUfwdeKiYbI18dyafuEh8eSZsHeyxAuQ9rvt97Z8O9jD_vhlYai7rVU37LmEKttvU4O7fJl2rn1T3gUWKXPufsZ_9MhPeU-jZkcGGCUQ7M/s1600/tcb_09+%2528002%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="1024" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XbiYuAJCySGu_57QWWf-3tjFUMzjkhZsjSUfwdeKiYbI18dyafuEh8eSZsHeyxAuQ9rvt97Z8O9jD_vhlYai7rVU37LmEKttvU4O7fJl2rn1T3gUWKXPufsZ_9MhPeU-jZkcGGCUQ7M/s320/tcb_09+%2528002%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
He lives in Santa Barbara, California, with his wife Karen, a
college sweetheart (Boyle has said he "must be the only American writer of my
generation who has had only one wife"). The couple have three grown-up children,
one of whom was just about to qualify as a doctor when we spoke. "So I have the best in-house
medical care." He says he's most at risk from Coronavirus not only because of his age but because he's a pessimist. One aspect of this singular man is that you never quite know when he's joking.<br />
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TC Boyle has just finished his latest (as-yet-untitled) novel, and
a short story about COVID-19.</div>
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<b>What’s the new novel about? I don’t even know its title…</b></div>
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The title is not decided. It was originally called <i>The
Familiar </i>but my agent thinks people won’t know what a familiar is so the
title may change. It’s set in the 1970s and early 80s and it’s about trying to teach apes how to speak.</div>
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<b>Humans and animals – that’s always been your territory, hasn’t it?</b></div>
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Oh yes it has. It goes all the way back to my very first book, <i>Descent
of Man</i> when I was still a student. That was when I first discovered we were
trying to teach apes language. I have been fascinated throughout my life about
our place in nature as another animal species, and I keep revolving these
questions over and over: what is the difference between us and the other
animals? Is there a soul? The basic question is, What are we doing here, and
what does it all mean? When I finally get an answer I can stop writing and
you’ll be the first to hear. But in reality there is no answer, nothing but the
lack of God, and hopelessness, and I try to address that. A lot of writers want
to make the reader feel better – I want to make them feel a whole lot worse –
that’s my goal.</div>
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<b>I know it’s been said before but the COVID-19 pandemic could
be one of your stories</b></div>
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In 2000 I wrote <i>After the Plague</i> [its
opening lines are: “After the plague – it was some sort of Ebola mutation
passed from hand to hand and nose to nose like the common cold – life was
different. More relaxed and expansive, more natural. The rat race was over, the
freeways were clear all the way to Sacramento.”] It was far more lethal of
course; it [the story] is blackly and joyously hilarious, as is the new story.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizseVQ7eJkaTRGPgsQvTealTO9IPOApmfU-FrJUaABbFTxfqVPBE0gR3EQWBPkNs5mBNDIHTTEzbnUUXOVwMRkgBxL9-0S7kOEPBiV2v0cau5BECCRSh9mCQEu3XVnwQo8FUzR__z9ORw/s1600/aftertheplague.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="324" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizseVQ7eJkaTRGPgsQvTealTO9IPOApmfU-FrJUaABbFTxfqVPBE0gR3EQWBPkNs5mBNDIHTTEzbnUUXOVwMRkgBxL9-0S7kOEPBiV2v0cau5BECCRSh9mCQEu3XVnwQo8FUzR__z9ORw/s320/aftertheplague.jpg" width="207" /></a></div>
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<b>Tell us about the new story</b></div>
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It’s called <i>The Thirteenth Day</i> and it’s about
COVID-19. I wrote it in its moment: I finished a week ago. It took me two or
three weeks to write, in the early stages of the pandemic. It’s a kind of
absurdist comedy but with this blackness underlying it, about a ship that
visits with a bunch of tourists on it. I don’t know when or where it will be
published. It could be months and months from now.</div>
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<b>You’re in Santa Barbara, the heart of wine country; I
hear you only drink the local wines, is that right?</b></div>
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For the most part. Many of my friends are foodies and
oenophiles and I really appreciate going out with them, and investigating their
wine cellars. We’re just over the hill from the Santa Ynez Valley; I’ve
explored the local wines and I am very content with them. I’m drinking Pinot
Noir at the moment: we have Cambria and Byron and Foley and Meiomi, all of
which I like very much.</div>
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<b>Did you see Sideways [the 2004 film set in Santa Ynez
Valley]?</b></div>
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It’s hilarious and brilliant and I love it – I’ve rarely had
Merlot since! The evolution of drinking wine in my household took a while. When
we were young we didn’t know anything about it. Every year we had a Superbowl
party and people brought beer -then one year everyone brought wine, and no more
beer…Then ten or 12 years ago I broke my leg in a freak accident and I had to
be confined for a bit. At that point I decided, Now you’re mature maybe you
should drink mature wine, so I switched to red and I’ve never had white wine
since.</div>
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<b>Do you ever think about winemaking as an art?</b></div>
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Not really. I do know some winemakers – that’s inevitable
out here in California – but the artistry of wine is not my chief concern in
life. I enjoy a glass of wine and I give all praise to the winemaker in his
beneficence but beyond that I’m not overly concerned. I’m not really a gourmet;
I love fine dining, but unlike some of my friends I’m not obsessed with it. I
feel the same way about wine: I’m glad it’s there, if I like it I will buy a case,
and I’ll buy another case when that’s done.</div>
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<b>I get the feeling that part of you is enjoying the
tranquillity of lockdown?</b></div>
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Last night I was out in the yard and there was absolutely no
human sound – only the tree frogs. I couldn’t hear the railroad or the freeway.
It was kind of magical. Of course the infection is more difficult and more
worrying in cities –<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but here, I’m
leading the kind of life I want to. I read books, I make a fire, I watch a
movie on Netflix. I prepare a meal, hike in the woods. I’m very gregarious so I
miss communication, but other than that it seems like a respite. For most
Americans and I’m sure the British too, we don’t have a lot of time for
contemplation in our lives. We are pedal to the metal all the time – and now we
can now kick back and think about life.</div>
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<b>Do you have a sense of vindication – “I told
you so” – that life is imitating your art?</b></div>
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Not vindication, just a kind of grinding
superstitious fear. Everything I write seems to come true. </div>
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<b>You’re often described as being very detached,
relishing the awful situations you put your characters in. Is a part of you now
observing your fellow humans with equal detachment?</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
I am a large-hearted and compassionate man, a
lover of nature and my fellow human beings. Art is my outlet. The beauty of
writing fiction is that the writer becomes the God of his own universe. </div>
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<b>Someone (I forget who) said that there is a
savagery at the heart of American life. Do you agree?</b></div>
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There is a savagery at the heart of all human
life—we are animals, after all. As for the nature of Americans, I chose an
epigraph from an English writer, D.H. Lawrence, reflecting on our penchant for
violence, to suggest the themes of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The
Harder They Come </i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">(2015)</span>:
“The essential American soul is hard, isolate, stoic, and a killer. It has
never yet melted.”</div>
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<b>When we first spoke [in the second half of
March] you seemed remarkably sanguine. How do you feel now?</b></div>
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My level of worry is off the charts. I am in the
highest risk group, not simply because of my age, but because I am a pessimist.</div>
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<b>Isn’t it the pessimists and the realists who are
best equipped to survive?</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
To say that, my dear fellow, you must be an
optimist.</div>
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<b><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
read somewhere that <span class="xst">Coraghessan is an invented name – is that
right? Where did it come from?</span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span class="xst">Don't believe everything you read.</span></span><b><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span class="xst"> </span></span></b></div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-84079950306155303512017-02-22T06:42:00.001-08:002017-02-22T07:17:06.842-08:00New posts on pressfolios.com:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsfnrqiOGX4ThoRG4xTVIsXf9zZ1HbPor_r9RdEKH9WKeh0_PWKRnfVVlhrKvzIUiAsOJ34kLxwK06gGBeXQdgZAfqX2-GmRX88080ORaDDMC3YaktfIa8cPuxPRjdrIarjc5qX_yfmeg/s1600/LP07-Winter-2016-17_A-Cover-Palmer-1032-copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsfnrqiOGX4ThoRG4xTVIsXf9zZ1HbPor_r9RdEKH9WKeh0_PWKRnfVVlhrKvzIUiAsOJ34kLxwK06gGBeXQdgZAfqX2-GmRX88080ORaDDMC3YaktfIa8cPuxPRjdrIarjc5qX_yfmeg/s200/LP07-Winter-2016-17_A-Cover-Palmer-1032-copy.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/252431/2524311487776327.pdf" target="_blank">Chateau Palmer dances to its own tune</a> (from Le Pan)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTz7h2m6hOKC2_cVu-Q5cAC4QeW_8HzrrTlz401-jgyqu7jjYJckwpbPb4QlF1xnxJMiFEJlXxxwVTbl_ZpJ0OeSXvDL064oplvuPZU4UoGxPiO-lXx02Y2bBYRasu_LcC9eUIMtJDvo/s1600/Kathleen_Heitz_Myers_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTz7h2m6hOKC2_cVu-Q5cAC4QeW_8HzrrTlz401-jgyqu7jjYJckwpbPb4QlF1xnxJMiFEJlXxxwVTbl_ZpJ0OeSXvDL064oplvuPZU4UoGxPiO-lXx02Y2bBYRasu_LcC9eUIMtJDvo/s200/Kathleen_Heitz_Myers_small.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/252417/2524171487774060.pdf" target="_blank">Heitz - California with restraint</a> (from Meininger's Wine Business International)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieaEynWT19DxmKueL3gOyJC0aG8oe_xT9zP5plDeBHkChGOfqjYtEAE_aFGzcPzVFjnkPKNtA6gE-_HBPY76EJ5uoTHjk-kj0NHWXlWpgC9FnS-0w620IbvbISPOeJ_839fg5XcRU94H0/s1600/Alto+Adige.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieaEynWT19DxmKueL3gOyJC0aG8oe_xT9zP5plDeBHkChGOfqjYtEAE_aFGzcPzVFjnkPKNtA6gE-_HBPY76EJ5uoTHjk-kj0NHWXlWpgC9FnS-0w620IbvbISPOeJ_839fg5XcRU94H0/s200/Alto+Adige.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/252414/2524141487773496.pdf" target="_blank"><br /></a><br />
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<a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/252414/2524141487773496.pdf" target="_blank">Alto Adige - Italy's Border Region</a> (from Meininger's Wine Business International)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXkRlmUQwK5vNYuNiO_N0y6uHiU7s0UdfRl6QjMCTgbwq5b_rUVx7KlYL78pZPjkQYnC-sUtZwt8w_ofmqhyphenhyphenvfal3WfT1qIwHNFHvmvOsuNyukG62uRJrPTudsBwVDB86nRpi2I8lhHwE/s1600/Nichelini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXkRlmUQwK5vNYuNiO_N0y6uHiU7s0UdfRl6QjMCTgbwq5b_rUVx7KlYL78pZPjkQYnC-sUtZwt8w_ofmqhyphenhyphenvfal3WfT1qIwHNFHvmvOsuNyukG62uRJrPTudsBwVDB86nRpi2I8lhHwE/s200/Nichelini.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/252421/2524211487775586.pdf" target="_blank">Napa's New Elegance</a> (from Decanter)<br />
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<br />Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-11432335148424613362016-11-08T14:43:00.001-08:002016-11-17T06:34:37.350-08:00Mexico is very big guitar country...the Rolling Stones in Latin America: film premiere<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbh9W7q4KaYx1rMb2MLS6Cbkd-SMBPL-MBLAA_l3nypyDaIQtOSzAPz0AGhyaOW6XdHqjgK-oaetP0NGd7btv669wrl7M9_5BxOHHVz5Hq_E7jnt4IecJ3vypJXy_Fgwb98jL9usKh2A/s1600/the_rolling_stones_tiff_still_h_2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbh9W7q4KaYx1rMb2MLS6Cbkd-SMBPL-MBLAA_l3nypyDaIQtOSzAPz0AGhyaOW6XdHqjgK-oaetP0NGd7btv669wrl7M9_5BxOHHVz5Hq_E7jnt4IecJ3vypJXy_Fgwb98jL9usKh2A/s400/the_rolling_stones_tiff_still_h_2016.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Olé Olé Olé</b> tells the story of the <b>Rolling Stones</b>’ América
Latina Olé Tour this year, which culminated in the historic free stadium gig in
Havana, the first visit by a western rock band after decades of isolation. As a
rock movie it’s a conventional, access-all-areas look at a few weeks in the
life of the supra-national juggernaut that is the Rolling Stones on tour – the
planes, the motorcycle outriders, the “madness”, the bonhomie (Mick: “what’s that word for bonding?
That’s what we do in rehearsal”). The concert footage is amazing, and there are
some wonderful aerial shots, of Lima (Keith: “Lima. It’s got enormous since I
was last here in 68”) and Rio. The production values are top notch. It’s
mercifully short on rock n roll clichés, if you ignore the fact that the
concept of the “Rolling Stones” is one gigantic cliché in itself – the band as
brand. Even the antimacassars on the plane are splashed with the tongue logo.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’d gone along to the premiere at London’s Curzon Mayfair
for a few glasses of Argentinian and Uruguayan wine – the excellent Argento, and
Bodega Garzón, who sponsor the
London showings of the movie – expecting to be entertained. The Stones have
been around a while after all (“Please allow me to introduce myself …”), and
they know how to put on a show. To my surprise, I was gripped.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Considering this quartet of multi-millionaires has been peddling
the same old rock and roll for more than half a century, they come across as
remarkably uncynical. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s often moving. There’s a sweet moment when a Cuban man
collapses on the kerb in tears. “He just saw Mick,” his wife says with a
gentle, understanding smile as he rubs his face. It’s hardly an exaggeration
when someone - Keith, or Charlie, or Mick, or Ronnie – says of Cuba, “the Stones
are a religion here”.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Jagger and Richards are the wizened prophets at the
centre of it all. The latter, piratical old Keith, has been outspoken about the
fact they haven’t exactly got on like a house on fire over the last decade or
so, and you might wonder how they manage to seem so relaxed together in the few
set-piece chinwags they have for the camera. I guess they rub along like
brothers nowadays, or like the French and the British: respect, antipathy and
mutual interests blended and buffed over the years into something like
affection.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Then, in the corner of a dressing room, they break into<a href="https://www.theguardian.com/music/video/2016/nov/17/rolling-stones-sing-country-tonk-acoustic-video-mick-jagger-keith-richards" target="_blank"> a spine-tingling rendering of Honky Tonk Women</a>, Mick crooning like a gypsy,
his skinny little legs shaking out the rhythm, Keef bent double over his
guitar. It brought cheers from the audience. If that was staged, then those two
are better actors than I thought. There are other delicate touches that could
even be accidental. In one classic backstage shot in Havana, the band’s just
about to go on and the noise from the crowd is deafening. You see Jagger in his
red shiny jacket (“I’m a man of wealth and taste”) actually hesitate, and for a
moment he looks vulnerable.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’m a Beatles man myself (I always suspected the Stones were
more businessmen than musicians) but those songs – Satisfaction, Sympathy, You
Gotta Move, Start Me Up, Wild Horses – are inscribed on the synapses of all of
us. And when Jagger struts around the vast stage belting them out, the very
screen bulges and pulses with the atmosphere.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As to getting a look into the psyches of the actors in this
lengthy drama, that’s beyond this director’s remit. All I know is, the Stones
are certainly enjoying themselves (“It all looks very festivally out there,”
Mick drawls as he looks at another 50,000 fans revving themselves up), and it’s
also clear they’re moved by the adulation. From the Argentinians, for example,
who if they’re old enough remember what it was like under the generals, when
they weren’t even allowed radios. “This would have landed us in prison,” says one
grizzled Rolinga (that’s what Stones fans call themselves there). “This is
profoundly touching”, Jagger’s says, simply. Music and dance is everywhere:
wherever they go, the boys are serenaded. There are scissor dancers in Peru,
mariachi bands in Mexico (Keith: “Mexico is a big guitar country), tango,
samba, rumba and cha-cha, tribute bands in front rooms and kids singing in the
street. “It’s humbling,” Jagger says, and I can see what he means – there’s the
very strong impression that the Stones are welcomed as equals, not as rock stars
(although there’s a devil of a lot of screaming when the lights go down, much
of it by middle-aged men). And the music is fabulous. I’ve never heard Wild
Horses sung with such passion as Jagger coaxes out of his voicebox.<o:p></o:p></div>
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What more do you want? Is there any more? If you’d asked me
before, I would have said I’d like some insight – something like Julien Temple
did with Joe Strummer in the masterful Clash documentary The Future Is
Unwritten. But I don’t think the Stones go in for that sort of thing. If it was
McCartney, there’d be soul-searching. Bono would be irritating, Sting even more
so. But the Glimmer Twins? They’re just a pair of raddled old buccaneers, doing
what they do. “How can you stop rock and roll?” Jagger asks, and it’s purely
rhetorical.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-21537536562525530122016-09-28T00:40:00.003-07:002016-09-28T01:06:05.320-07:00"We're trying to fuck it up a bit ..." Modern Aussie winemaking on display in Shoreditch<i>(from <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/09/australian-wine-shows-off-its-wild-side">Wine Searcher</a>)</i><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV40cEp4VFetftcUGbZo2v-rGceLwEBnauVneRLFUK1LbDyUFxdc80vfP6B88VQGs-WrU2EhiWl5vbkBJAD99E6JNaUh72cBLbE_taEAbK7M92dMWdDtQsFst5dQMEHffjbubisLvyuQ0/s1600/Cargo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV40cEp4VFetftcUGbZo2v-rGceLwEBnauVneRLFUK1LbDyUFxdc80vfP6B88VQGs-WrU2EhiWl5vbkBJAD99E6JNaUh72cBLbE_taEAbK7M92dMWdDtQsFst5dQMEHffjbubisLvyuQ0/s400/Cargo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"A scrum of jostling hacks..." Cargo, in Shoreditch</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px;">There's nothing like a Shoreditch nightclub as a venue for a wine tasting. To call Shoreditch trendy is like suggesting the UK Independence Party is nasty – it just doesn't do it justice.</span></div>
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The East London borough is eye-wateringly, not-knowing-where-to-look trendy. Cargo nightclub – where the Artisans of Australian Wine event was held this week – is in the center of a barrio of booming street chic. Every bar or shop is shimmering white, or black, or self-consciously scruffy. There are restaurants in converted shipping containers where beautiful Japanese couples lunch off a bowl of three fries and a lozenge of wasabi for $45; next door you can buy a tee-shirt with a gnomic message for twice that. That's the thing about postcodes east of the City – they might look like a scene from Blade Runner, but they come with a hefty price tag.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.4px;"><br /></span>Cargo is darkish, sweaty, the toilets reassuringly squalid (with signs warning that drugs are not tolerated). You don't want to touch the walls. At the door, dressed in black, stood Wine Australia's London chief Laura Jewell and her events manager Emma Symington, looking like they were about to ask me to step aside for a frisking. No such luck.<br />
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Of course, wine tastings have been held in nightclubs and bars before. There's any number of hip young gunslingers importing artisan wines who wouldn't dream of setting up their tables anywhere else. But it's a measure of the current state of <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-australia" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none !important;">Australian</a> wine that Jewell and her team should choose this particular moment to hold this particular tasting in this particular venue, instead of in the hallowed marble halls of Australia House.</div>
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The avant-garde has become mainstream. It is now perfectly normal to find a Barossa Shiraz with less than 13 percent alcohol (Eden Road's wonderfully crunchy 2011 <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/eden+rd+sra+canberra+district+new+south+wales+australia" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none !important;">Canberra Shiraz</a> is 12.9 per cent); whole-bunch pressing, carbonic maceration, natural yeasts and weeks on skins are standard practice. Experimentation is everywhere. The "natural", in all its myriad definitions, is celebrated. As Gary Mills of Jamsheed described the vinification of his entry-level Yarra Valley <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/jamsheed+harem+series+pepe+le+pinot+noir+yarra+valley+victoria+australia" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none !important;">Pepe le Pinot</a>: "We're trying to fuck it up a bit – roughen up the edges."</div>
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This is modern Australian winemaking. <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/09/australian-wine-shows-off-its-wild-side" style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px;">Read whole article</a></div>
</div>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-57053631406454656612016-08-30T10:10:00.003-07:002016-08-30T10:10:44.675-07:00English sparkling wine comes of age<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dOjHmQeoHnyw9vh311M50KtHT_hgGqKK1_4bHi-DF4uaX45s97C6G0El-iJATEhJ7fSWXUIn5hEvt6x0G2VntYhJYi0wqO5Xefzyk0kpEz4XdvsfTglS-B_hU7sLqTlNGbK-1qQcWx0/s1600/20151215_140001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dOjHmQeoHnyw9vh311M50KtHT_hgGqKK1_4bHi-DF4uaX45s97C6G0El-iJATEhJ7fSWXUIn5hEvt6x0G2VntYhJYi0wqO5Xefzyk0kpEz4XdvsfTglS-B_hU7sLqTlNGbK-1qQcWx0/s320/20151215_140001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyetimber: the cruck barn, dated 1600-1605</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The announcement late last year that Champagne Taittinger
had bought a substantial parcel of land in Kent in a multi-million
dollar investment was the best Christmas present the
English wine industry has ever been given. For a house of this
renown to endorse English wine in such unequivocal terms is
a massive boost to the industry. Taittinger aims to produce
25,000 cases of “Premium English sparkling wine” from vines
that are yet to be planted...<br />
<br />
Read the entire article <a href="https://pressfolios-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/story/story_pdf/221385/2213851472575951.pdf">here</a>Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-59233031614504666252016-06-27T09:43:00.002-07:002016-06-27T09:43:15.388-07:00Latest features<h3>
See all latest features in Decanter, World of Fine Wine and others <a href="http://adamlechmere.pressfolios.com/">here</a></h3>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-35752044739626046692016-06-07T05:11:00.005-07:002016-09-28T01:19:10.211-07:00Olivier Bernard is in the wrong job... Bordeaux 2015 shenanigans remembered<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>this article first appeared in <a href="https://www.meininger.de/en/wine-business-international">Meininger's Wine Business International</a></i><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Olivier Bernard</b> is in the wrong job. The owner of <b><a href="http://www.domainedechevalier.com/">Domaine deChevalier</a></b> in <b>Pessac-Léognan</b>, a chateaux of international renown, he’s also in
his second term as president of the<a href="http://ugcb.net/"> <b>Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux</b></a> (UGCB). It’s
observing him in this latter capacity that one wonders if his diplomatic skills
would not be put to better use at the <b>Quai d’Orsay</b> – perhaps sorting out Syria,
or intervening in the Ukraine.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFN0OekQiBUmnHlFlJUIZwO79rA2b7WBrLUpSzl97ePxMw9kPlWRETN4rgTns8Nq6gXP01Wq7Iw2XQcSKgc8-qfDBogkvt0vhE0ulmg7uYDAaoKhSLhzczJ7F-IejJygcHc0pJu9XtiU4/s1600/bernard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFN0OekQiBUmnHlFlJUIZwO79rA2b7WBrLUpSzl97ePxMw9kPlWRETN4rgTns8Nq6gXP01Wq7Iw2XQcSKgc8-qfDBogkvt0vhE0ulmg7uYDAaoKhSLhzczJ7F-IejJygcHc0pJu9XtiU4/s320/bernard.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No laughing matter: Olivier Bernard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Bordeaux </b>wine politics can be febrile, and never more so
than during en primeur, the annual barrel tastings of the previous year’s
vintage. Depending on who you talk to, en primeur is either a robust,
time-honoured system that works excellently – or it’s a creaking machine long
past its usefulness and the sooner it goes the better.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fuel is added to the fire every year or so. In 2012 <b><a href="http://www.chateau-latour.com/">ChateauLatour</a></b>’s <b><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/09/en-primeur-is-a-four-letter-word-at-latour">Frédéric Engerer</a></b> caused sparks to fly when he announced the 2011
vintage was to be the last one Latour would sell en primeur. A wave of
defections was predicted, though nothing has happened so far. In every mediocre
vintage – such as 2011, 2012 and 2013 – merchants warn it will be the last en
primeur. If the wines are not going to increase in value (indeed, if they’re
going to go down in price), what possible reason is there for buying futures?
The wine’s not going to sell out; far better to wait and see how it performs
both in terms of price and quality. “The system will be dead if there’s no
sound financial reason for buying en primeur,” <b>Mark Wessels</b> of the <b>Washington
DC</b> merchant <b><a href="http://www.bassins.com/">MacArthur Beverages</a></b> told me.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
As consumers see less reason to buy futures in Cru Classé
Bordeaux, so châteaux find it more important to stand out from the crowd. And
this is the problem that Bernard is faced with: every year more and more châteaux
decide they will not show their wines at the collective tastings run by the
UGCB. “The problem is that all over the world – and not just in wine –
individuals have become stronger,” he told me. “They refuse to be a part of the
collective. The <b>First Growths</b> have never shown their wines at the collective
tastings, and there are some super seconds which have followed them. Now there
are second growths which dream of being super seconds, and they won’t play the
game.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Things became even more complicated this year when Bernard
announced that tastings which had previously been spread over a full week, hosted
by different châteaux across Bordeaux, would now be held over two days at the
vast <b>Matmut Atlantique</b> stadium near to the <b>Vinexpo </b>site. The press was horrified.
“I really don't think a football stadium on the distant outskirts of the city
is likely to have a particularly conducive atmosphere for wine tasting, however
new it is and however much it cost,” <b><a href="http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/bordeaux-primeurs-tastings-shrunk">Jancis Robinson</a></b> thundered. The veteran
French critic <b>Michel Bettane</b> was so outraged he could no longer taste blind that he threatened a boycott.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bernard
treads this minefield carefully. In response to Robinson’s and others’
complaints he said it is simply unfair that some chateaux (those which don’t
show their wines at the collective tastings) are tasted non-blind, and others
are tasted blind. “We just think that all grands crus should be tasted on a
level playing field,” he said, rather plaintively.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Contrary
to grumbling from certain sections of the press (“It was like being back at
school,” one critic said) the seated tastings at Matmut were run efficiently
and flexibly. Qualified sommeliers served the wines in any order the taster
requested, the lighting was excellent and the glasses large and clean. We could
taste standing up at the bar tops if we wanted a less formal setting. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Château
owners and directors joined the press pack for lunch – <b>Lilian Barton</b> of <b><a href="http://www.leoville-barton.com/">ChateauLéoville Barton</a></b>, <b>Christophe Labenne</b> of the Cru Bourgeois <b><a href="http://www.chateaupoujeaux.com/">Poujeaux</a></b>,<b> Fabien Teitgen</b> of<b>
<a href="http://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/">Smith-Haut-Lafitte</a></b> were just three I spotted wielding knife and fork – a great
opportunity to discuss wines and communes we had just tasted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bernard
thinks the format worked and he’ll keep it as it is. He gave a faint chuckle
when I asked him how much he’d learnt about diplomacy during his UGCB
presidency. “Diplomacy is important. But to make the right choice, and to be
clear, is more important.”<o:p></o:p></div>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-79062180768594015982016-05-10T05:44:00.006-07:002016-05-10T05:48:18.144-07:00Wine Searcher articles<br />
I am the European Editor for <a href="http://wine-searcher.com/">wine-searcher.com</a>. Below is a list of recent articles<br /><br />
<h3>
Bordeaux 2015 en primeur</h3>
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/first-bordeaux-prices-raise-merchant-hopes">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/first-bordeaux-prices-raise-merchant-hopes</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/03/bordeaux-enjoys-the-fruits-of-the-golden-weather">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/03/bordeaux-enjoys-the-fruits-of-the-golden-weather</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/first-taste-of-2015-bordeaux-full-of-promise">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/first-taste-of-2015-bordeaux-full-of-promise</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/wrestling-with-tannin-in-2015-bordeaux">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/wrestling-with-tannin-in-2015-bordeaux</a><br />
<br />
<h3>
Burgundy 2014 en primeur</h3>
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/2014-burgundy-whites-shine-brightest">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/2014-burgundy-whites-shine-brightest</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/burgundy-en-primeur-celebrates-a-milestone">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/burgundy-en-primeur-celebrates-a-milestone</a><br />
<br />
<h3>
General news</h3>
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/graham-s-celebrates-queen-s-birthday-with-rare-port">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/graham-s-celebrates-queen-s-birthday-with-rare-port</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/03/margaux-mourns-pontallier-s-death">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/03/margaux-mourns-pontallier-s-death</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/drc-s-2013-wines-strike-a-great-balance">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/drc-s-2013-wines-strike-a-great-balance</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/diamonds-are-trumps-at-wine-and-spirit-sale">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/01/diamonds-are-trumps-at-wine-and-spirit-sale</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/12/taittinger-uncorks-a-vineyard-in-england">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/12/taittinger-uncorks-a-vineyard-in-england</a><br />
<h3>
<br />Features and interviews</h3>
<h4>
Tim Mondavi</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/03/q-a-continuum-s-tim-mondavi</a><br />
<h4>
Edouard Moueix</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/q-a-edouard-moueix-bordeaux-negociant</a><br />
<h4>
Grandes Pagos de España</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/04/grandes-pagos-mapping-the-future-of-spain-s-wine</a><br />
<h4>
Bordeaux 10 years on: 2006</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/10-years-after-bordeaux-2006</a><br />
<h4>
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/q-a-louis-michel-liger-belair</a><br />
<h4>
Burgundy's Jane Eyre</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/q-a-jane-eyre</a><br />
<h4>
Romania</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/12/what-s-the-big-deal-about-romania</a><br />
<h4>
Ex-Grange winemaker John Duval</h4>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1368223131">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/11/winemaker-duval-moves-back-to-basics</a><br />
<h4>
Chateau Latour's Frederic Engerer</h4>
<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/09/en-primeur-is-a-four-letter-word-at-latour">http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/09/en-primeur-is-a-four-letter-word-at-latour</a>Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-44778363681259905042016-03-24T05:33:00.002-07:002016-05-09T15:57:03.042-07:00How to make authentic Paella Valenciana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
This is <b>Paella Valenciana</b>, as made at <b>Bodega Mustiguillo</b> in Utiel Requena. Inclusion of other ingredients such as mariscos (seafood) or caracoles (snails), chorizo etc is allowed but it then ceases to be authentic.<br />
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<br />
The paella doesn't have to be cooked over an open fire but the woodsmoke adds a wonderful flavour<br />
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Olive oil<br />
Brown the chicken and set aside<br />
Add artichoke, green beans (bajoqueta) and white beans (garrofon)<br />
Fry<br />
Replace chicken<br />
Add water, bring to boil and reduce (40-45 mins)<br />
Add saffron (warmed and crumbled), pimenton and chopped rosemary<br />
Add rice and cook for 20 mins<br />
Serve<br />
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Notes:<br />
1. The <i>paella </i>is the pan as well as the dish, from the Valencian/Catalan word which derives from the French <i>paelle</i>, which in turn comes from the Latin <i>patella</i>, akin in turn to the Old Spanish <i>padilla</i>.<br />
2. A. Habbaba, agricultural section head of Icex, told me there is also a view that the word derives from the Arabic <i>bakaia</i> meaning 'leftovers'<br />
3. The word <i>paellera</i> for the pan is approved by the Real Academia Española, though purists dislike it.<br />
4. Valencians eat paella several times a week. When I visited Mustiguillo, owner Toni Sarrion told me he had not had one for four days, and he was feeling it<br />
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<br />Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-72585743933289120082016-03-18T08:04:00.001-07:002016-03-19T07:15:18.117-07:00A vintage studded with gems: Bordeaux 2006 Ten Years On<div style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px; line-height: 19.44px;">
<i>this article first appeared on <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/02/10-years-after-bordeaux-2006">Wine Searcher</a></i></div>
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The 2006 vintage in Bordeaux was destined to be difficult. Apart from coming straight after the already-legendary 2005, the weather was far from ideal – a warm start, a broiling July (hotter, on average, than the heatwave of 2003), then a damp, cool August, a blast of heat in early September and then rain for two weeks until the end of the month.</div>
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The ripening process had been so protracted that bunches were unevenly ripe, and the rain just before harvest increased the danger of rot. It was a season when diligent – and costly – work in the vineyards, and rigorous sorting when the grapes arrived in the winery, was essential. "It was a very expensive harvest," Florence Cathiard at Smith Haut Lafitte said. "We had to select almost as if it was Sauternes."</div>
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Generalizations are hard to make. The accepted wisdom at en primeur in April 2007 was that it was a <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-275-merlot" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Merlot</a> year on the right bank (the toughest decision had been whether to pick before or after the September rain) and a Cabernet year in the <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-medoc" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Medoc</a> (the later-ripening variety was full and ripe by the beginning of October). The Graves was reckoned to have made some great wines.<br />
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Ten years later, those early opinions are borne out. At the London merchant <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/merchant/305" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Bordeaux Index</a> (BI as it is now known), a small group of critics and journalists met, as they do every year, for the<b> Bordeaux Ten Years On</b> tasting, with 71 red wines shown. Every wine of any note was there: Petrus at £15,000 a case, Le Pin (£12,500), the big-hitting Saint-Emilions, all the First Growths and their second wines, the super seconds, fifths, fourths, thirds and a smattering of Cru Bourgeois.</div>
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The first thing to say is that – apart from the ultra-wealthy superstars that can be expected to make an excellent wine come what may – there are some very good wines indeed, others that are charming and interesting, and some that are thin and astringent. While there was a danger of picking unripe fruit, the vintage is characterized by good structured tannins and high acidity, which when handled right means wines with great ageing potential. "Its bedevilment lies in its variability," BI's Michael Schuster writes. It is a vintage that requires careful choosing.</div>
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The best wines are bright, classic in profile, with dense, gripping tannins and fine acidity. There are outstanding wines in every commune. In the Medoc,<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-saint-julien" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Saint-Julien</a> shows consistently well: Talbot was a particular pleasure, Gruaud-Larose, Langoa-Barton and Leoville Barton have lovely perfume; Leoville-las-Cases is juicy and exotic (but twice the price of its neighbors). In Pauillac the energy of the best wines – Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pontet-Canet were particular favorites – is notable.</div>
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The <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-graves" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Graves</a> lineup was also a pleasure. The two wines in which Michel Rolland has the most obvious hand, Malartic Lagravière and Smith Haut Lafitte, are beautifully made, calculatedly international wines with fresh ripe fruit and suave tannins; their neighbor Domaine de Chevalier is utterly different, precise and poised with sour cherry and damson fruit and brisk tannins releasing juice. Pape Clement too is excellent.</div>
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On the right bank, the earlier-ripening Merlot in Pomerol made some superb wines. At the top end, Petrus is a model of energy and harmony, its shy nose giving way to soft damson, blackberry, fine tannins and a delicate finish. Le Pin shows its colors instantly with a powerful savory nose, black cherry, the palate elegant and juicy, pretty but with a sense of power behind the structure. But note that there is far more affordable Pomerol, the best wines showing a creamy texture, developing into very precise, firm tannins. Look for Gazin, L'Eglise-Clinet and Conseillante.</div>
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Saint-Emilion, by contrast, is less consistent, with some wines showing a dryness and sour sharpness on the mid-palate and parsimonious juice at the end. The best wines managed to find ripeness to mitigate the acidity. Look out for Canon La Gaffèliere and Trotte Vieille. At the higher end, Figeac has sweet leathery damson fruit and a fine, juicy finish; at the very top, the concentration and energy, and soft creamy dark fruit of Cheval Blanc is a delight. Once again, Chateau Pavie is instantly recognizable for over-use of oak and clumsy extraction. Avoid.</div>
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2006 is not a cheap vintage: analysis from the trading platform Liv-ex shows that prices are on a par with 2001 and 2004, years which are similar in reputation. "There were some errors in pricing on release," Liv-ex's Justin Gibbs told Wine-Searcher, pointing to wines such as La Mission Haut-Brion, which had an opening price of £2,950 and is now half that at £1,480; but generally the wines are holding their value. Most of the First Growths have not dropped in price since release.</div>
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At every level and in every commune 2006 is a vintage studded with gems, the very best wines with structure and acidity to ensure another ten or twenty years ageing; there are also affordable, charming and accessible wines that are drinking beautifully now.</div>
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<img alt="10 Years After &#x2013; Bordeaux 2006" src="http://sr1.wine-searcher.net/images/news/55/25/Mouton-barrel-hall-10005525.jpg" height="245" style="display: block; height: auto; position: relative; width: 567px;" width="670" /></div>
<span class="imgcopy" style="background-color: white; color: rgb(51 , 51 , 51); font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.44px;">© Deepix</span><br />
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<strong>Bordeaux 2006 – wines to look out for:</strong></div>
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<em>(all prices approximate, case of 12 bottles, in bond)</em></div>
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<strong>Affordable to pricey<em>:</em></strong><br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/nenin+pomerol+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Nénin, Pomerol</a></strong></div>
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Sweet pleasant woody nose leading to sour plum on the palate. Classic profile, charming, gentle fine length with some dryness.</div>
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£300, Drink 2016-2020<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/gazin+pomerol+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Gazin, Pomerol</a></strong></div>
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Attractive creamy texture on the attack, sweet dark fruit, delicate grip to the tannins and a perfumed mid-palate. Juicy and long.</div>
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£465, Drink 2016-2025<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/belgrave+haut+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Belgrave, Haut-Medoc</a></strong></div>
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Slightly herbaceous nose, palate of damson and plum with hint of sour sloes, fresh and open, firm on the mid palate, juice released at the end.</div>
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£265, Drink 2016-2020<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/malartic+la+graviere+pessac+leognan+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Leognan</a></strong></div>
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Fine earthy nose, instantly attractive attack with lots of juicy dark ripe fruit and ripe tannins. Polished, smart, international but very good.</div>
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£260, Drink 2016-2025<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+de+chevalier+pessac+leognan+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan</a></strong></div>
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Delicious as always. Expressive nose with sour black cherry, sweet acidity, firm tannins, hints of just-ground coffee, lots of mineral energy. Superb.</div>
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£365, Drink 2018-2030<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/talbot+st+julien+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Talbot, Saint-Julien</a></strong></div>
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Fresh, perfumed, with lovely structure and sweet blackcurrant on the palate. Full, assured, opulent from this old-fashioned and consistently excellent property.</div>
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£420, Drink 2016-2025<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/branaire+ducru+st+julien+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien</a></strong></div>
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Cigar-box nose, instant grip to the tannins mitigated by fresh acidity and ripe black fruit. Great persistence to the slightly dry finish,</div>
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£350, Drink 2016-2020<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/gruaud+larose+st+julien+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Gruaud-Larose, Saint-Julien</a></strong></div>
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Complex nose with sandalwood and spearmint. Tannic density, serious weight, blackberry and ripe blackcurrant. Feels massive, dryness at end could be disconcerting until tannins release sweet juice. Will be very fine.</div>
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£380, Drink 2020-2030</div>
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<strong>Expensive to very expensive:</strong><br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/smith+haut+lafitte+pessac+leognan+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan</a></strong></div>
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Coffee and blackberry nose, generous fruit, smoky, tobacco-tinged blackberry and hedgerow complemented by soft-grip tannin. Open, weighty, polished, modern. Lovely wine.</div>
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£535, Drink 2016-2030<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/pape+clement+pessac+leognan+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac-Léognan</a></strong></div>
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In a ripe vintage Pape Clement can be vulgarly opulent but here the vanilla oak flavors are restrained, and there's delicacy to the sour plum fruit, precision to the tannins. Attractive in the modern style.</div>
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£700, Drink 2016-2028<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/palmer+margaux+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Palmer, Margaux</a></strong></div>
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Very fine earthy perfumed nose, fresh, open generous palate, creamy, with fresh-ground coffee, licorice and the merest hints of classic Palmer perfume. Firm insistent tannins and a lovely elegant finish.</div>
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£1275, Drink 2016-2030<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/leoville+cases+grand+de+du+marq+st+julien+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, Saint-Julien </a></strong><br />
Gorgeous perfumed nose, elegant and seductive, notes of exotic sandalwood on the palate, mint, blackberry, silky texture, endless length. Luscious, one of the best wines of the day.</div>
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£1075, Drink 2016-2030<br />
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<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/pichon+longueville+baron+de+pauillac+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;"><strong>Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron, Pauillac</strong> </a><br />
Sweet blackcurrant coulis on the nose, rather more open and accessible than its neighbour Pichon-Lalande across the road, smoky, tannic, dense mouthfeel and then welcome juice at the end. Serious, concentrated, hefty.</div>
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£725, Drink 2018-2030<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/calon+segur+st+estephe+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Calon-Sègur, Saint-Estèphe </a></strong><br />
The perfume leaps out of the glass, followed by fresh ripe dark fruit on the palate, firm tannins, racy acidity alongside freshening hints of green. Utterly seductive and delicate, as only to be expected from this lovely property.</div>
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£595, Drink 2016-2030<br />
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<a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/cos+d+estournel+st+estephe+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;"><strong>Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estèphe</strong> </a><br />
Extravagantly perfumed nose carried through to opulently-fruited palate, firm tannins releasing juice, baskets of cassis, blackberry, sour plum and roasted coffee beans. Dense, luscious, exotic.</div>
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£780, Drink 2018-2036<br />
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<strong><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/baron+philip+de+rothschild+mouton+pauillac+medoc+bordeaux+france" style="color: #154bca; text-decoration: none;">Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac </a></strong><br />
Touted everywhere as the wine of the vintage. A shy nose revealing minerally graphite, but the palate astonishes, huge but with finesse, black fruit, cassis, mouthwatering acidity giving wonderful energy. Exceptional, even down to the oddly charming "zebra" label by the late Lucien Freud.</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<div style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px; line-height: 19.44px;">
£3325, Drink 2018-2036</div>
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<br /></div>
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See also</div>
<div style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px; line-height: 19.44px;">
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/bordeaux-2005-ten-years-on.html">Bordeaux 2005 Ten Years On</a></div>
<div style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px; line-height: 19.44px;">
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/bordeaux-2004-ten-years-on.html">Bordeaux 2004 Ten Years On</a></div>
<div style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4px; line-height: 19.44px;">
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/bordeaux-2003-ten-years-on-cabinet-of.html">Bordeaux 2003 Ten Years On</a></div>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 22px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0.75em 0px 0px; position: relative;">
</h3>
</div>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-53982489289013448162016-03-18T04:08:00.000-07:002016-05-17T07:46:12.342-07:00Underworld: the section headings<br />
<div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">
<br /></div>
<div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">
</div>
These are the section headings in Don DeLillo's <b>Underworld. </b><br />
Summaries are my own<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
Prologue<br />
<b>The Triumph of Death</b><br />
The Game - Cotter - Sinatra, Gleason, Hoover - Russ Hodges<br />
<br />
Part 1<br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Long Tall Sally</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Spring - Summer 1992</b></span><br />
Nick Shay - Klara Sax - Big Sims and Brian Glassic<br />
<br />
<b>Manx Martin 1</b><br />
Stealing the baseball<br />
<br />
Part 2<br />
<b>Elegy for Left Hand Alone</b><br />
<b>Mid-1980s - Early 1990s</b><br />
The Texas Highway Killer - Marian and Brian - Brian and Marvin (baseball) - Bronzini aged - Sister Edgar<br />
<br />
Part 3<br />
<b>The Cloud of Unknowing</b><br />
<b>Spring 1978</b><br />
Marvin and Chuckie Wainwright<br />
<br />
<b>Manx Martin 2</b><br />
Stealing shovels<br />
<b><br /></b>
Part 4<br />
<b>Cocksucker Blues</b><br />
Klara on the rooftops with Miles - Matt Shay - Eisenstein's <i>Unterwelt - </i>Matt and Janet<br />
<br />
Part 5<br />
<b>Better Things for Better Living Through Chemistry</b><br />
<b>Selected Fragmaent Public and Private in the 1950s and 1960s</b><br />
Nick in correction - the Demings at home ("the sense of a tiny holiday taking place on the shelves") - Nick - Hoover and Clyde at the Waldorf - "Crisp little men aswagger with assets" - Lenny Bruce - Chuckie the bombardier<br />
<br />
<b>Manx Martin 3</b><br />
Meeting Charles Wainwright and Chuckie at the game<br />
<br />
Part 6<br />
<b>Arrangement in Grey and Black</b><br />
<b>Fall 1951 - Summer 1952</b><br />
Bronzini coaches young Matt - young Nick and his friends - Rosemary Shay - Nick shoots George the Waiter<br />
<br />
Epilogue<br />
<b>Das Kapital</b><br />
Kazakhstan - Sister Edgar - "Peace"<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
<br />
1. The Manx Martin chapters appear before Elegy for Left Hand Alone, Cocksucker Blues and Arrangement in Grey and Black<br />
<br />
2. Prologue, Epilogue and Cocksucker Blues are the only undated sections<br />
<br />
3. Better Things for Better Living Through Chemistry is the only section to be subtitled. I have no explanation for the misspelling of 'Fragmaent' (in my Picador paperback)<br />
<br />
4. If you search 'Fragmaent Underworld', you get six results, two of which are relevant: this blog, and <a href="https://books.google.co.uk/books?isbn=1447289390">Google books</a><br />
<br />
5. All spellings and punctuation sic<br />
<br />
6. Here's Observer writer Robert McCrum's <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/books/2015/aug/03/100-best-novels-underworld-don-delillo">essay </a>on this "visionary edifice"<br />
<br />
7. And here's Adam Begley's <a href="http://www.theparisreview.org/interviews/1887/the-art-of-fiction-no-135-don-delillo">interview with DeLillo</a> in the Paris Review<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Underworld.jpeg" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/6/6a/Underworld.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover to the 1st Edition 1997</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-55650353845144464022016-03-15T10:31:00.002-07:002016-11-25T03:52:44.785-08:00Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-90623382510656803092016-03-15T10:31:00.001-07:002016-11-25T03:52:39.876-08:00"Them motherfuckers racist": how Jay Z's Armand de Brignac is coming out of the darkness and into the light<i>This article appears in the current issue of <a href="https://www.meininger.de/en/wine-business-international">Meininger's Wine Business International</a></i><br />
<br />
Eyebrows were raised when <b>Champagne Armand de Brignac</b>
announced last year that it wanted to take its bottles “out of the night and into
the daylight”. After all, this is multi-millionaire rapper and businessman <b>Jay
Z</b>’s brand, it comes in a gold-embossed bottle with an <b>Ace of Spades</b> motif. It’s
as closely associated with nightclubs as <b>Frank Sinatra</b> is with Las Vegas.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSlSWqdTi6mZgh7h9kVjAIXCl8lBYiufEMar8PuAl0N3CsVfcMgmNMQfVN4rdC9c4WQ3Ybu3JoW8Ba6Z_-8wu6weUzgYR7UkQ2u2rtW_30nT7upS1lyv6oecs3HGayki4B40wPYpVVGbk/s1600/jay+z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSlSWqdTi6mZgh7h9kVjAIXCl8lBYiufEMar8PuAl0N3CsVfcMgmNMQfVN4rdC9c4WQ3Ybu3JoW8Ba6Z_-8wu6weUzgYR7UkQ2u2rtW_30nT7upS1lyv6oecs3HGayki4B40wPYpVVGbk/s320/jay+z.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That spade shit...Jay Z and Armand de Brignac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The company – Armand de Brignac is now wholly-owned by Jay Z,
who bought it outright in 2014 – is unambiguous about its new ambition. “We
want to take it out of nightclubs and into the daytime,” marketing director
<b>Gerald Loparco</b> said. “We’ve seen a strong evolution in the night industry. The
new strategy is to establish the brand in the daylight. We’ve been in
nightclubs too much.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mindful that bringing a brand blinking into the daylight
also means there are fewer dark corners to hide in, the team behind the
Champagne has been carefully updating
its pedigree and ironing out the inconsistencies in the story of its creation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The circumstances of Armand de Brignac’s birth are
well-known, although the details remain foggy. In 2006 Jay Z – who had been
wedded to <b>Roederer</b>’s<b> </b>top marque <b>Cristal</b> for at least 10 years, selling it in
his numerous clubs and sports bars and other concessions – took offence at a
remark made by Roederer’s new CEO <b>Frederic Rouzaud</b>. The latter, asked what he
thought of the rap community being such fans of Cristal, replied, “What can we
do? We can't forbid people from buying it. I'm sure Dom Perignon or Krug would
be delighted to have their business." <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Them motherfuckers racist” was how Jay Z pithily expressed
his reaction in his song <b>On To The Next One</b>, adding, “so I switched gold
bottles, on to that spade shit,” a reference to Armand de Brignac which – and
this is where accounts diverge – he discovered in a New York bottle shop. In
another video, <b>Show Me What You Got</b>, he waves away a bottle of Cristal in
favour of Ace of Spades.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a 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" 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" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Armand de Brignac Brut Gold</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Eight years later, in 2014, he bought the entire brand from
New York drinks company <b>Sovereign Brands</b>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Armand de Brignac is made by <b>Champagne Cattier</b>, a
family-owned house with a couple of hundred years history in the premier cru
village of <b>Chigny-les-Roses</b>. Its vineyards, notably the 2.2ha Clos du Moulin,
are distinguished, but Cattier has no great international prestige. Indeed,
when Armand de Brignac first came to Jay Z’s – and the world’s – notice,
Cattier was not identified as its maker. The fact that Armand was a joint
venture with Sovereign Brands also took some years to come to light.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From the start, journalists
in both the wine and the music business were intrigued. Armand de
Brignac had appeared, fully-fledged and, at over $200 a bottle, in the front
rank of Champagnes, almost literally overnight. Critics such as <b>Jancis Robinson
MW</b> were effusive. She thought it so good, it made one of her favourite fizzes,
<b>Pol Roger 1999</b>, seem “diffuse and ordinary”, she wrote in 2009.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But others were unsatisfied. <b>Forbes.com</b>’s <b>Zack O’Malley
Greenburg</b> found the story “unravelling” as he delved into it. It was full
of inconsistencies, he said. The idea
that Jay Z had found it in a New York store, for example: Armand de Brignac
didn’t start shipping to the US until months after the gold bottle made its first
famous appearance in Show Me What You Got. “When I confronted the folks at
Cattier about this, they backtracked,” he wrote. He was told, “There’s a
misunderstanding regarding how Jay saw the bottle. It was in New York, but
not in a store.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>"You can't create a Champagne out of thin air..."</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over the ensuing ten years, Armand de Brignac has become
used to fielding questions about its provenance. Its executives are notable for
their accessibility and openness. “The Jay Z connection is very simple,” CEO
<b>Sebastien Besson</b> tells Meininger’s. “He’s talented about spotting consumer
trends.” Was he involved in creating Armand de Brignac? “Of course not. You
can’t create a Champagne out of thin air.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Besson is frank about their ambitions and reiterates what
the other senior executives of the company say: their aim is to be spoken of in
the same breath as <b>Dom Pérignon, Ruinart </b>and<b> Krug</b>. “We’re not shy about being a
new brand. We’re not as visible as the prestige brands at the moment, but it’s
amazing how much ground we’ve gained. If we’re in a Michelin-starred restaurant
in New York, we’re fighting against the prestige brands.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Price, rarity, history and quality - in that order</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To exist in the rarefied atmosphere of the great
Champagne marques, one has to satisfy four criteria – price, rarity, history
and quality – often in that order. The first two are amply taken care of. Last
year the new ultra-cuvée of Armand de Brignac was launched, a <b>Blanc de Noirs</b>
that retails in <b>Harrods </b>for £695. There is another new wine, a demi-sec, which
sits alongside the original <b>Brut</b>, a <b>Rosé</b>, and a <b>Blanc de Blancs</b>, all of which
sell for between £250 and £350. Some 3,000 bottles of the Blanc de Noirs are
made, and its price puts it in the same bracket as <b>Krug Clos de Mesnil</b>, <b>Dom Pérignon </b>Oenotheque, and other icons. One level down, the Brut and its siblings are
on a par with <b>Salon</b>, <b>Dom Pérignon</b>, <b>Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque</b> and the like.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Creating a history for Armand de Brignac is trickier. The
company now takes care that <b>Jean-Jacques Cattier</b> and his son <b>Alexandre</b> are on
hand to provide a bit of Gallic credibility. The Cattiers were there at last
year’s launch at the <b>Churchill Hotel</b> in London, sticking gamely if lugubriously
to the story. “This is a big adventure for us. We launched the prestige brand
less than ten years ago and we’re now in more than 100 countries. We can’t
quite believe it,” Jean-Jacques said.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Image result for frank sinatra and vegas" src="data:image/jpeg;base64,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" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Armand de Brignac and nightclubs "like Sinatra and Vegas..."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The setting for the tasting was a windowless book-lined
room, reminiscent of a <b>St James’s Street </b>club, all dark wood and plush
armchairs. The leather-backed volumes on the shelves were real, although they
had a slightly ersatz look; closer inspection revealed they were unreadable Victorian
treatises on land management, or bound editions of engineering periodicals.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If the bogus-yet-plush setting was somehow appropriate, it
has to be noted that there is nothing fake about the wine in the bottles. Armand
de Brignac is a very good Champagne, from excellent terroir. It’s not only Robinson
who rates it highly. Two other critics of international standing, <b>Tom Stevenson</b>
and <b>Essi Avellan MW</b>, called it “extraordinarily exceptional.” In 2010, the Brut
Gold NV was voted the world’s best Champagne by <b>Fine Champagne Magazine</b> (the
winner in 2014 was <b>Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002</b>).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But there are dissenting voices too, and discreet enquiries
around the London trade are likely to be met with a gentle pursing of the lips,
and an arched eyebrow. “It definitely has a following but I’m not convinced of
its quality,” one major London merchant told <b>Meininger’s</b>, making the point that
“part of its cleverness is its anonymity – no one knows it’s Cattier”. Back in
the Churchill, critics drew ironic comparisons between the fakery of the décor
and Armand de Brignac’s lurid packaging. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>The juice is exceptional...</b></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Chief marketing officer Bernadette Knight (who comes from
luxury conglomerate LVMH, whose list includes<b> <span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Moët & Chandon</span></span></b>, <b>Dom Pérignon</b>,
<b>Krug </b>and <b>Ruinart</b>) is unfazed by the criticism. “There’s some work to do on
messaging,” she said. “We’ve got a job to do to reintroduce the
brand. But the juice is exceptional and there is passion on the winemaking
side. It’s an authentic and honest brand.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Knight and her global marketing team (“all wine and
Champagne specialists”) have been on a charm offensive, running “traditional
tastings which allowed both trade and consumers to better understand, taste and
feel the attention to detail, pride and passion that the 11th generation family
winemakers, the Cattiers, have put into each bottle of Armand de Brignac.” She
has placed the wine in upmarket restaurants worldwide, from <b>Zuma </b>and <b>Hakkasan
</b>in London to LA’s <b>Beverly Hill’s Hotel</b> and <b>Wolfgang Puck’s Spago</b>, Johannesburg’s
<b>Signature </b>and the <b>St Regis</b>, Singapore. “As we grow, what will remain most
important to us is the continued focus on craftsmanship, quality and small
batch production,” Knight adds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The input of Jay Z himself is harder to nail down. He has an
empire that is estimated to be worth some $550m, so a few thousand bottles of
Champagne can’t occupy him that much. “He brings his sensibility to the brand.
He was involved in the design of the
bottle, and he directs where the company goes, but he isn’t involved in the
winemaking process,” Alexandre Cattier says.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Knight adds to this: her boss is looking far into the future.
She tells <b>Meininger’s</b>, “He wants to create a legacy for his family. He has
said, ‘This is the legacy I want to leave behind for my children’s children.’
Jay is a businessman. He wants to make a true luxury brand that stands with or
without him.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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Every multimillionaire wants to own a winery. Jay Z has a
brand, but is he looking around for something more concrete? “This is a family
company,” Besson reiterates. “There may be a vineyard in France, one day.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com165tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-61104180521759801822016-01-04T09:31:00.000-08:002016-01-04T09:47:25.077-08:00"Of course more Cabernet will be planted..." Changing times on Napa's Spring Mountain<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>This article was first published in Decanter magazine</i></div>
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<b>Spring Mountain District</b> is one of the five great mountain
appellations of the <b>Napa Valley</b>. It covers a lot of ground – its lower reaches
abut the quiet residential streets of St Helena town, before the road climbs in
vertiginous switchbacks 2000 feet into the Mayacamas Range and the borders of
Sonoma. Wine has been made here since the mid-19<sup>th</sup> century – the
<b>Beringers</b>, already established in <b>St Helena</b> – planted a vineyard in 1880. In its
heyday, before phylloxera and Prohibition, there were some 250 wineries working
on Spring Mountain.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="SpringMountainDistrict_1" src="http://springmountaindistrict.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/SpringMountainDistrict_1.jpg" height="156" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring Mountain Distict: "One of the five great mountain appellations of Napa"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Today there are thirty, and you’re unlikely to find a more
diverse crew of winemakers and grape farmers in Napa, or indeed in any American,
appellation. There are rangy individualists like the Smith brothers at <b>Smith
Madrone</b>, whose ranch is a piece of Napa history, unchanged since they arrived
in the 1970s, their interesting list including a <b>Riesling </b>that is renowned, and delicious (though
not as original or unusual as their Cabernets). On a quiet evening you can hear
their shotguns booming from miles away – the estate is dotted with
buckshot-peppered targets. There are polished, millionaire-owned start-ups like
Vineyard 7&8, or Newton, now owned by <b>LVMH </b>but an early pioneer, of whose
light and elegant 1981 Cabernet Sauvignon I wrote in my notes, “among the best
Napa Cabs I’ve ever tasted.” There are hidden treasures like <b>Stony Hill</b>,
started by the <b>McCrea </b>family in 1942, whose winemaker Mike Chelini pressed his
first vintage in 1977. <o:p></o:p></div>
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While <b>Bordeaux varietals</b> dominate – over 800 of the
appellation’s 1000 acres (405ha) are planted to the five red Bordeaux grapes,
550 (223ha) of them Cabernet – Spring Mountain is far from homogenous in the
way that <b>Stags Leap District</b>, say, is now almost entirely Cabernet. Stony
Hill’s 160 acres are a patchwork of varieties; the majority are the early
Chardonnay plantings, with Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Semillon, a bit of
Pinot Noir and some Zinfandel. Growers like John Gantner and Nancy Walker at
School House are working with Zin and Pinot Noir and Syrah, while Riesling and
Sauvignon Blanc aren’t uncommon.<o:p></o:p></div>
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But times are changing, and the more fashionable mountain
fruit becomes, the more vineyards will be turned over to the profitable
varieties. Newton is undergoing a major
replant which will see its Cabernet plantings rising from two thirds to about
85% of its acreage. A couple of years ago, <b>Jackson Family Wines</b> snapped up 25
acres of Spring Mountain land for their <b>Lokoya </b>range of very expensive Napa
mountain Cabernets. Stony Hill owner <b>Peter McCrea </b>isn’t about to change
anything, “But,” he says, “If I came into the business now, I’d plant Cabernet
and Chardonnay. No question.” Gantner laments this. “Of course more Cabernet
will be planted. The only people who can afford to buy here are
multimillionaires who hire hi-tech consultants. They <i>know</i> they’re not going to make any money but that doesn’t worry
them. What they want are 100-point scores to show off to their friends.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Stony Hill is a good example of a producer that is in the
district but not of it (the current vintage is the first to carry the AVA on
the label – previous bottles have been labelled simply Napa Valley). Indeed, McCrea
articulates a view of Spring Mountain that is not uncommom: the AVA really has
no coherence at all.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“An AVA should have commonality in terms of climate, soil
variety, topography,” he says. “And Spring Mountain has none of that. It’s
known as a Cabernet appellation but Cabernet wasn’t grown here for 60 years.”
Gantner agrees. “The one common feature is that we’re all located on this
mountain.” He talks about the temperature variations between altitudes, and
especially the varied soils. “I dug 14 soil pits and they were all different.
In one there was heavy black loam, and 200 yards away there would be another
with round volcanic rocks and sandy loam.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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If there is a common thread, it’s the distinct style of
mountain fruit. For <b>Andrew Schweiger</b> at the lovely vineyards his parents
planted in the 1980s, it’s “complexity and small berry size, and fine acid that
develops during the day.” The fruit produces tannins that have to be carefully
managed, he says. “You could give Spring Mountain fruit to a monkey and he
would produce a big Cab.” For Hal Barnett of his eponymous winery, another
pioneer, it’s “fruit that’s not as forward or lush as on the valley floor. It’s
got more restraint.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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I drove up to <b>Cain</b>, a mountain fastness whose wind-blown
grasslands and sloping vineyards embody the character of the appellation. The
climate here is typical of high-level California vineland. The inversion layer
(by which warmer air is pushed upwards from the valley floor) means there is
less difference between night and day temperatures than down below, but the
thin soils and exposure to wind ensure small berries with thick skins. “Bud
break is a week later than in the valley,” vineyard manager <b>Ashley Anderson</b> says,
“the growing season is shorter so we get intenser flavours. We don’t need to
extract much.” Only one of Cain’s three wines - the <b>Cain 5</b> - is sourced entirely from Spring Mountain. A
Bordeaux blend, it’s a marvel of precision and exoticism, with the hallmarks of
mountain fruit and with layers of violet
perfume, minerality and fine earthy rot.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s a difficult wine to classify, but perhaps
unclassifiability is Spring Mountain’s unifying factor. I have several emails
from Cain’s winemaker <b>Chris Howell</b>, describing the region, and
what he calls its “mountain iconoclasts”. “Is it about elevation, exposure and
soil or is it about winemaking?” he asks in one. “Perhaps some of the character
in the wine comes from the characters who live and work up here.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u>At a Glance</u></b></div>
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<b>Established </b>1993</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Area under vine</b>: 1000 acres (405ha)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Number of wineries</b>: 30<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Location</b>: northern and eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Elevation</b>: 400 feet (122 m) to 2,600 feet (792 m)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Grapes planted</b>: over half is Cabernet Sauvignon (557
acres/225ha), the rest Merlot (182 acres/77ha), Cabernet Franc (44 acres/18ha),
Petit Syrah (28/11); Chardonnay (51/21), Sauvignon Blanc (26/10); Small parcels (less than 10ha) of Riesling,
Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Malbec, Viognier<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Soils</b>: Typically shallow volcanic and sedimentary rock:
primarily volcanic in the north and sandstone and shale to the south.
Well-drained, acidic, poor in nutrients, on steep slopes with very varied
orientation.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Total production</b>: between 60,000 and 120,000 cases depending
on yield. Average winery production 85,000 cases <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u>Ones to Watch</u></b></div>
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<b>Spring Mountain Vineyard</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Napa aristocracy, runner-up in the 1976 Paris Tasting,
producer of restrained and ageworthy red and white Bordeaux blends. SMV’s La
Perla vineyard, planted in 1873, is the oldest Cabernet planting on Spring
Mountain. Now under the auspices of formidable Tasmanian winemaker Susan Doyle,
who is casting a gimlet eye over the whole operation. Of the 2013 Chardonnay
(the 1973 came 4<sup>th</sup> in Paris) she says, “There’s not enough acidity.
We can lend ourselves to a more European style.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Stony Hill</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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The McCrea family planted in the 1940s and the winery has
changed little since then: the barrels are dark with age, the 1000-gallon vats
look like the sort of thing Al Capone might have stored bootleg in. Current
winemaker Mike Chelini, who took over in 1977, is “the oldest tenured winemaker
in Napa,” owner Peter McCrea (who is of the same vintage) says. There is
nothing old-fashioned about the wines, which are structured, restrained and
fresh: utterly modern, in fact. The Chardonnay 2014 from barrel was among the
best I have tasted in 15 years visiting Napa.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Smith-Madrone</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Bearded mountain men Stuart and Charles Smith work a remote
200-acre ranch which was first planted in the 1880s, crafting sought-after Bordeaux
blends, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Riesling on rocky slopes. Like the McCreas
(above), the Smiths have changed little since they planted in the 1970s, their
Cabernets expecially showing a fine classic structure. “Those tannins will
calm,” Stuart says of the fine, robust Estate 2006.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Lokoya</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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In looking for prime Napa hillside land for their high-end
Lokoya series, in late 2013 Jackson Family Wines bought the Yverdon vineyard, which
sits at 2000-plus feet off the Spring Mountain Road. Lokoya is regarded as
amongst the very finest hillside collections, its winemaker Chris Carpenter
teasing out the subtle differences between the AVAs of Diamond Mountain, Mount
Veeder, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain. The blue fruit, fresh cedary
brightness and stony minerality of the latter are the hallmarks of the appellation.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>School House Vineyard</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Founded 75 years ago, seventeen acres of Zinfandel, Pinot
Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, vinified
peripatetically in a series of wineries including Stony Hill, Schweiger,
Montelena and now Pride Mountain. School House is dry-farmed, its owners John M
Gantner and Nancy Walker self-proclaimed dinosaurs. Gantner has an amused
disdain for what he calls “the hi-tech people” – multimillionaires who buy up
land and chase 100-point scores. “My instructions to winemakers are, ‘Let the
wine make itself’. If in doubt, I go for simplicity,” he says.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Philip Togni</b><o:p></o:p></div>
A founding father of modern Napa Cabernet, the British-born
Togni was instrumental in the creation of Chappellet (his 1969 Cabernet is legendary)
with long and influential stints at Cuvaison and Chalone among others, he
bought 25 acres on Spring Mountain in 1975 and planted to Bordeaux varietals.
His wines are celebrated the world over for their subtlety and finesse; the
1990 Cabernet was ranked above that vintage of Latour, Margaux, Haut-Brion and
Mouton at a Brussels tasting.<br />
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<b><u>Spring Mountain District Recommendations</u></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.luscher-ballard.com/">Lüscher-Ballard </a>Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District,
Napa Valley, 2008<o:p></o:p></div>
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£50<o:p></o:p></div>
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n/a UK<o:p></o:p></div>
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Made by John Kongsgaard, this has a lovely rotted ozone
whiff on the nose, followed by ripe blueberry and blackcurrant, pencil
shavings, cigar tube, fine dry tannins and fresh acidity<o:p></o:p></div>
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2015-2020<o:p></o:p></div>
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alc 14.1<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.pridewines.com/">Pride Mountain Vineyard</a>, Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain
District, Napa Valley, 2005<o:p></o:p></div>
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£164 Fine and Rare, Hedonism, Turville Valley Wines<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dense nose of dark fruit, palate of sweet blackberry juice,
a hint of tobacco and coffee, intense weighty tannins and a lovely juicy finish.
Powerful but controlled<o:p></o:p></div>
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2020-2035<o:p></o:p></div>
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alc 14.5<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.schweigervineyards.com/">Schweiger</a>, Dedication, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley,
2010<o:p></o:p></div>
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£55<o:p></o:p></div>
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n/a UK<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bordeaux blend: fresh raspberry leaf and mocha nose, ripe
damson and black cherry, sweet cedar, savoury notes finishing with fine sweet
juice. Powerful, restrained<o:p></o:p></div>
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2020-2035<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 14.8<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.cainfive.com/">Cain Vineyard and Winery</a>, Cain 5, Spring Mountain District, Napa
Valley 2010<o:p></o:p></div>
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£75.00 Justerini & Brooks<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Creamy, savoury opulent nose with coffee notes, young
tenacious tannins, ripe, almost rotted plum, then notes of graphite, sour
cherry and orange zest; racy acidity. Exotic and perfumed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2018-2030<o:p></o:p></div>
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alc 13.9<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.springmountainvineyard.com/">Spring Mountain Vineyard</a>, Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled,
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley 2009<o:p></o:p></div>
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£62.50 Whirly Wines<o:p></o:p></div>
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Intense savoury nose, medium weight, fresh blackcurrant with
hints of mint, earthy tones, fine tannins, delicate dry length<o:p></o:p></div>
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2015-2025<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 14.3<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.stonyhillvineyard.com/">Stony Hill</a>, Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2007<o:p></o:p></div>
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n/a UK<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sweet and fresh with very pure lime and citrus aromas.
Honeysuckle and peach on the palate with flinty minerality, dancing acidity and
top notes of exotic spice. Precise and utterly delicious <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2015-2025<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 13<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.barnettvineyards.com/">Barnett Vineyards</a>, Merlot, Spring Mountain District, Napa
Valley 2012<o:p></o:p></div>
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£35<o:p></o:p></div>
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n/a UK<o:p></o:p></div>
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Opulent plum and cherry, ripe without being jammy, fresh
acidity lifting the fruit, dry, chalky tannins releasing juice. Sweet with
serious weight at the core<o:p></o:p></div>
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2018-2028<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 14.5<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://www.smithmadrone.com/">Smith-Madrone</a>, Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District,
Napa Valley 2010<o:p></o:p></div>
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£44 Roberson<o:p></o:p></div>
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Vibrant blue fruit on the nose, fresh and savoury palate
with ripe perfumed damson, fine structured tannins and refreshing acidity. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2018-2025<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 14.1<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.lokoya.com/">Lokoya</a> Cabernet SauvignonSpring Mountain DistrictNapa Valley2011<o:p></o:p></div>
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£232<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hedonism<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Almost raisined nose leading to fresh and bright open
palate, graphite, stony minerality, open and juicy, fresh, with wonderful
cedary brightness. Powerful and persistent length<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2018-2035<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
alc 14.5<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://www.smithmadrone.com/">Smith-Madrone</a>, Riesling, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
2013</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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£22.99<o:p></o:p></div>
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Roberson<o:p></o:p></div>
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Orange-blossom nose with hints of gasoline, white flowers on
palate developing peach and sweet pear, bone-dry minerality will soften.
Curious, charming<o:p></o:p></div>
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2015-2025<o:p></o:p></div>
alc12.6<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-74866688793442728822015-10-26T13:42:00.000-07:002015-10-26T15:05:46.694-07:00Pushing for Crus in Rioja<div class="MsoNormal">
“Do you know the taste of <b>Labastida</b>?” asks <b>Telmo Rodriguez</b>.
The same question from a Burgundian or a Bordelais about one of their villages
would be far easier to answer. Coming from Rodriguez, as he stands amongst the
tiny, ancient plots of his<b> Las Beatas</b> vineyards in <b>Rioja Alavesa</b>, it’s
rhetorical. His point is that for a region so varied in terroir, in topography,
in soils, elevation and orientation (in their few hectares, the vineyards of
Las Beatas face half a dozen points of the compass), it’s astonishing how
unsophisticated is the popular perception of Rioja. As he puts it, with a note
of regret, “We’re happy to be generic.”<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="179" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=0d20500a7f0f49a69d96dd3ea0bb1a86&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=40871&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the garden at Remelluri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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Rodriguez, who makes wine in nine regions of Spain, from his
family estate of <b>Remelluri </b>in Labastida and the ancient vineyards he has
revived in the region, to <b>Ribera del Duero</b>, <b>Toro</b>, <b>Galicia </b>and as far south as
<b>Malaga</b>, is one of a disparate group of producers becoming increasingly vocal
about the limitations of the Rioja DOC. They have different ways of expressing
themselves but their point is simple: the official classification of Rioja into
the three levels of <b>Crianza</b>, Reserva and Gran Reserva is an instrument too
blunt to do justice to the complexity of what is popularly known as “the region
of 1000 wines”.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The man who set the whole thing off is <b>Juan Carlos de
Lacalle</b> of <b>Artadi</b>, whose <b>Viña el Pisón</b> has the distinction of being one of
Spain’s most expensive wines. Indeed, at a little under €500, the 2007 is one
of the <i>world’s</i> priciest bottles.
Early in 2015 the Rioja press reported he would be leaving the DO. From the
2014 vintage all Artadi wines will be labelled Vino de Mesa, and will not carry
the Rioja name or official back label stamp.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“We need different tools to express the thousands of
different styles of Rioja,” de Lacalle says. As an illustration of what he’s talking
about he takes me to his vineyards on the San Ginés river (a tributary of the
<b>Ebro</b>) outside the town of <b>Laguardia</b>. On the eastern bank, west facing, is La
Poza, and opposite is Valdegines, looking east. The difference is the
orientation and the depth of soil. The winemaker suggests La Poza – warmer,
with deeper soils – “is more Mediterranean.” The wines are markedly different,
the one with red fruit, the other with riper tannins and a rounder profile.
“This is the kind of terroir we want to focus on,” de Lacalle says. “Why should
we put it all in the same tank and label it Gran Reserva?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://www.demaisonselections.com/images/slideshows/remelluri/telmo_rodriguez.jpg" height="239" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Do you know the taste of Labastida?"Telmo Rodriguez</td></tr>
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The singularity of Rioja’s classification goes back to the
19<sup>th</sup> century. Historically, Rioja’s bodegas have been master
blenders, sourcing grapes from all over the region, developing a distinctive
house style. The classification is geared to wine age: DO regulations state
that Crianza wines must spend a year in oak and a year in bottle, Reserva for a
year in oak and two years in bottle, <b>Gran Reserva</b> two years in oak and three
years in bottle. Village names are not allowed on bottles. No notice is taken
of place – for most consumers it is irrelevant that <b>Marques de Murrieta</b>’s
Castillo Ygay comes from one of the most famous single vineyards in Rioja Alta.
“The system implies that everything starts when the wine is in barrel or
bottle. There’s no emphasis on the vineyard,” Murrieta’s owner Vicente Cebrian
says.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The land is pushed further into the background by the fact
that only a handful of bodegas own their vineyards. Almost all (<b>Murrieta </b>is a
rare exception) source their wines from multiple growers, all over Rioja,
working very small plots: the average size of vineyard in Rioja Alavesa is one
third of a hectare. The concentration on blending, Rodriguez says, means that
“we forget the Grands Crus”. Terroir is lost in favour of process.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Las Beatas is a vineyard paradise, with medieval abandoned
terraces, and the remains of an 800-year-old stone press hewn into a house-sized
rock. For Rodriguez (who studies the old ways, a process he likens to pulling
on a rope to bring the past into focus) it is essential to re-discover respect
for the land. For most people, he says, Rioja is reduced to a simple duality,
traditional and modern, where “Traditional means American oak and modern means
French oak. But it’s far more complicated than that.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The man who set the whole thing off..." Delacalle of Artadi</td></tr>
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The idea of Rioja as homogenous is quickly exploded by a
visit to the eastern tip of <b>Rioja Baja</b>, the biggest but least-celebrated of the
three sub-regions of this sprawling appellation. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Baja’s main town of Alfaro has the greatest vineyard acreage
of any town of Rioja. All the great producers source tonnes of grapes from
here. But despite the efforts of the bullish and charismatic <b>Alvaro Palacios</b>
(<b>Decanter’s Man of the Year 2015</b>), whose family winery, <b>Palacios Remondo</b>, is in
Alfaro, Baja struggles for recognition. There are many reasons for this, the
main one being the craze for Tempranillo in the 1980s, which is fine up north
but can get overripe if it’s too warm. Palacios is busily regrafting back to
Garnacha.<o:p></o:p></div>
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While to the north the valleys are narrow and steep, Baja is
more open, flatland leading to humpbacked hills. The soil is stony – in some
places it resembles <b>Chateauneuf-du-Pape</b>. It is Mediterranean-influenced, the warmth
(and the pudding stones) ideal for Garnacha. Palacios’ dream is to gain
recognition for the region. “I don’t want to dedicate my life to the vineyard
and in 50 years not know where the wine comes from. The worst thing that has
happened in Rioja is that when you taste Viña Real 1954, you don’t know any of
the vineyards. It wasn’t the winemaker, it was the vineyard, it was those old
vines from a special area.” Palacios was instrumental in getting village
designations recognised in Priorat, and he would like to do the same here. “We
have to have a pyramid of quality, with country wine at the bottom, then
regional, then the villages, then specific plots within the villages.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Las Beatas: note Roman stone press in fore, ancient terraces at back</td></tr>
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The “reformers” are voluble, passionate, dynamic – and
inchoate. They agree a quality level should be added to the DO, but they
haven’t put together any sort of proposal. Rodriguez believes his terroir among
the best in the world but says he doesn’t want to get bogged down in
bureaucracy; Palacios reckons change will come, “but not until my
grandchildren’s time”. Cebrian is adamant they should “reform the DO but not
break it.” Even a bodega as conservative as <b>Marques de Caceres</b> agrees some sort
of reform would be welcome. <b>Cristina Forner</b>, its president, sees no reason to
leave the DO, though she agrees a way should be found of moving “towards models
focussed on quality with future potential.” Caceres has already launched its
own “estate” range, Excellens, five wines sourced from high-altitude vineyards
with all the emphasis on vine age, reduced yields and limited production.</div>
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Others agree that the DO needs to be improved, but are
ambivalent about how it should be achieved. At <b>Bodegas Roda</b>, founded in 1987
and one of the most renowned of the Rioja modernists, export manager <b>Victor Charcán</b> says, “Yes, the classification
should include vineyards. Some sites are better than others.” But he adds, Roda
is a blending house, so village designations would be irrelevant to them. “Any
reform must be handled with great care,” he cautions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For its part, Rioja’s regulatory body the <b>Consejo Regulador</b>,
while often derided for being reactionary, says it is open to suggestions. The
problem, general manager <b>José-Luis Lapuente</b> told me, is politics. “They’re
talking to the media but they have made no formal application to us. Certain
political issues have blocked the debate.” But reforms are being tabled, and “certainly
the name of a village on the label could add value.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-x361X2x1oRkRByDs-DTxqA_ShRZ2kYQt1MJN8JwaLEGhTlkkNPGJLwq5kYlpWFsU7qp1nYvehOsy0mFwOC9H7X6RDr6idLtm37eI5ziqfW3wpqY8_UHyQ0RClfKtvCEMGnqYWKlElw/s1600/Artadi+-+Valdegines+vineyard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-x361X2x1oRkRByDs-DTxqA_ShRZ2kYQt1MJN8JwaLEGhTlkkNPGJLwq5kYlpWFsU7qp1nYvehOsy0mFwOC9H7X6RDr6idLtm37eI5ziqfW3wpqY8_UHyQ0RClfKtvCEMGnqYWKlElw/s320/Artadi+-+Valdegines+vineyard.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artadi - Valdegines vineyard</td></tr>
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Bear in mind we are talking about adding value to one of the
world’s most recognised, and loved, wine brands. Rioja sells 400 million bottles
a year; eight out of ten bottles opened in Spain are from Rioja. The top bodegas
have markets in 120 countries; the UK market alone is worth £220m. With sales
like this, it’s not surprising the majority of producers don’t see any need for
change.<o:p></o:p></div>
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But it’s happening anyway. Those who know Rioja have long
understood the stylistic difference between modern, terroir-driven wines and
those that are more traditional and oak-dominant. “What’s really exciting for
Rioja lovers is that you now have the choice between traditional and modern,”
says Pierre Mansour of the Wine Society.<o:p></o:p></div>
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And people like “geekery”, as Jean-Remi Barris of the
independent importer Indigo Wines calls it. “Rioja is not seen on a par with
the best appellations because there is not enough geekery for people to sink
their teeth into.” The more information you can give a wine lover, the more
they will want. “It’s a bit like Champagne. For a long time it was very hard to
talk about terroir, but it’s all changing with grower Champagnes.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bureaucratic change will neither help nor hinder this thirst
for knowledge of terroir. Artadi, Palacios, Rodriguez and other pioneers will
carry on as they are, and their village lands will gradually come to the notice
of those keen to delve deeper into Rioja. More and more bodegas will follow
suit as they see the value such cuvées bring – and more and more of Rioja’s 17,000
growers, like <b>Pedro Balda</b>, who labels himself “viticultor” and produces 1200
bottles, will release fascinating artisanal wines. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“My family have been "cosecheros" (growers) in <b>San
Vicente</b> for six generations,” Balda told me in an email. “We know there are
lots of terroirs that produce a huge range of wines and qualities. So, in the
same village, there are many different things you can find.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=0d20500a7f0f49a69d96dd3ea0bb1a86&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=40872&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=0d20500a7f0f49a69d96dd3ea0bb1a86&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=40872&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
For Recommendations to go with this article go to to <a href="http://www.decanter.com/spain/exciting-reformer-rioja-wines-to-try-279379/">Decanter.com</a><br />
<br />
This article first appeared in <a href="http://www.decanter.com/">Decanter</a> magazine September 2015</div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-9712689939167916012015-10-20T08:54:00.002-07:002015-10-20T09:12:08.516-07:00The Hosemaster of Wine – misfiring muckspreader or lord of misrule?They used to say of<b> Evelyn Waugh</b> that he wrote like an angel
but had a foul personality, and of his son <b>Auberon</b>, that his pen was scurrilous
but he was an awfully nice man. It makes me think of <b>Ron Washam</b>. I’ve met him a
couple of times and he seems a thoroughly decent chap – and about as aggressive
as a basket of sleeping kittens.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Ron Washam" src="http://winejudging.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/ron-washam-300x300.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vituperative? Ron Washam, aka the Hosemaster of Wine</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Not so his alter ego, the <b>Hosemaster of Wine </b>(an inspired
moniker), who sprays all and sundry with his vituperative wit. No one is
exempt. He’s laid into <b>Jancis Robinson </b>more than once. Her Wine Grapes magnum
opus was subject to one of his notorious “blind reviews” (he was piqued, he
said, that his review copy went astray). A sample sentence (difficult to choose
just one) – “the book is massive. It’s seven pounds. Seven pounds of DNA.
Sounds like a party at <b>Silvio Berlusconi</b>’s house” – encapsulates the
Hosemaster’s ribald tone.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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His cheery insolence teeters nerve-wrackingly on the edge of
malevolent spleen – and you have to have a robust sense of humour to withstand
the barbs when they come at you. Jancis seems to have one (she’s written about
him), but I don’t know about <b>Georg Riedel</b>, who caused <b>Tim Atkin</b>, who hosts
the HM on his site, to issue the following apology: “On my website, I failed to explain clearly
enough that the article was a piece of satirical writing and, as a result, I
caused offence to Georg Riedel” and so on and so forth. Atkin would be well
advised to post trigger warnings in future.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The <b>Riedel </b>satire is a magnificent piece of sustained
mockery, in which an imaginary Georg ponders the infinite gullibity of the wine
drinking public and how much he can make out of it. “It’s a comic effect,
really,” Ron has him say. “How far can we take this mania for worrying about
which glass to drink our wine from? Like a great comedian, I understood that
there was no limit. I simply had to deliver them with a straight face.” You
have to know the Riedel family to really appreciate the delicious comedy of imagining
a top-hatted Georg on stage pulling goldfish out of some kid’s ear.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Robinson and Riedel are big fish (not to mix metaphors), and
are quite able to look after themselves. But some of Ron’s targets are pretty
soft. His latest diatribe against wine junkets fails on the simple level that
it’s not particularly sharp. Mocking wine hacks on freebies makes taking pot
shots at barn doors look challenging. Of course, I work for <b>Wine Searcher </b>(which gets a drubbing) but
that’s not the point.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://theyearoflivingenglishly.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/img_61122.jpg?w=960&h=260&crop=1" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Frank muck-spreading on the farm." border="0" height="106" src="https://theyearoflivingenglishly.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/img_61122.jpg?w=960&h=260&crop=1" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not all of it splattering the right people...</td></tr>
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The Hosemaster might occasionally resemble a misfiring
muckspreader – a great wave of slurry and not all of it splattering the right
people - but that’s neither here nor there. As <b>Oscar Wilde</b> said, the only
relevant criterion for a novel is whether it is well or badly written –
morality doesn’t come into it. Satire is no different – it should both shock
and amuse, and if it doesn’t do these things, then it’s redundant.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I never read the HM nowadays because he's just too rich a
mixture. I find one column so concentrated that it takes me weeks to digest, so
a trawl through the archives has been a treat. Here he is on wine accessories,
“And why isn’t there a colonoscope you can attach to a helmet, like a miner,
that helps you read a new<b> Matt Kramer</b> book?”. And on wine clichés: “Now, in
every stunningly stupid profile of a sommelier I read, which is every profile
of a sommelier I read, they are said to “curate” a wine list.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Now isn’t that just right? I used to write sommelier
profiles, and believe me, they are difficult to make interesting. Great satire
should shock and amuse, but it must also contain the tiniest grain of truth. The
wine world would be a poorer place without the Hosemaster and his ribaldry. We
need people to throw snowballs at the
toffs in top hats.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
Read the Hosemaster's column on <a href="http://www.timatkin.com/contributors?+ron_washam">timatkin.com</a></div>
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-41609087535646379622015-10-09T01:31:00.002-07:002015-10-12T15:15:48.003-07:00Sonoma's Verité takes on the cultiest of Napa cults<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>This article was first published without tasting notes on <a href="http://www.lepanmedia.com/sonoma-challenges-napas-cabernet-supremacy/">lepanmedia.com</a></i><br />
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There was a compelling new angle to the launch of <b>Jackson
Family Wines’ Verité 2012</b> at the <b>Dorchester</b> in London’s Mayfair this week: a
comparative tasting against three of Napa’s mosh cultish of cult wines.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Verité fruit is sourced from its Alexander Valley vineyards</span></td></tr>
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The tasting featured the three imminent new releases plus a non-blind
look at the <b>2005 Verité La Joie</b> alongside the same vintage of <b>Harlan</b>, <b>Scarecrow
</b>and <b>Screaming Eagle</b>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s been fascinating to watch the trajectory of the Sonoma wine over the last few years, how it has steadily grown in confidence,
and how its creator <b>Pierre Seillan</b> has gradually positioned it as the thinking
wine lover’s California cult.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pitting the wine against the greats is nothing new: <a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/rite-of-passage-verite-takes-its-place.html">last year JFW showed it </a>alongside <b>Lafite
</b>2001, <b>Mouton </b>2004, <b>Grange </b>2007, <b>Ornellaia </b>2004 and other icons. It performed
very well.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The fact that CEO <b>Barbara Banke </b>and her team have chosen wines
of such rarety and – in the case of Screaming Eagle, which retails in London
for over £2,500 - fabulous expense, is perfect evidence of the ground they wish
to occupy. <b>Nick Bevan</b>, the company’s senior vice-president, spelled it out.
“We’re aiming for that territory,” he said. “We’re not aiming at Grange,
or Opus – we’re far smaller and we’re beyond them now. We want to be a global
cult wine.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9J6ZqyQQuQFCCAhj_nPcA5onmpxWDX41ui320ZFMQUNshxXp1dD3kl-8Cvd6wbfLesgpgFe55Efn-V0kFF5VuoJbDxtabC2UmhsvCVsmym2njQRKbmIADHnIMkH3o4Y3vp8zww0wo8s/s1600/2012_Verite+Le+Desir+Bottle+Shot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9J6ZqyQQuQFCCAhj_nPcA5onmpxWDX41ui320ZFMQUNshxXp1dD3kl-8Cvd6wbfLesgpgFe55Efn-V0kFF5VuoJbDxtabC2UmhsvCVsmym2njQRKbmIADHnIMkH3o4Y3vp8zww0wo8s/s320/2012_Verite+Le+Desir+Bottle+Shot.jpg" width="91" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finest of the three</td></tr>
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The story of Verité has been told many times: how Jess
Jackson asked Seillan if it would be possible to make a California Merlot as
good as Petrus, and how Seillan replied “Pourquoi pas?” and produced the first Verité
in 1998,
a wine still spoken of in hushed tones by the Sonoma team. Verité is lauded in
the US, where Robert Parker has handed down eight perfect 100-point scores over
the years. In the UK they have been accepted, said <b>Greg Sherwood</b> of London’s
<b>Handford Wines</b>. “People are no longer questioning the quality of the Verité
wines but finally delving into the terroir and vintage conditions that created
these wines”. <o:p></o:p><br />
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There are now three Verité wines, based on the three great
Bordeaux grapes,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. According to Jackson’s – and
Seillan’s – vision, each wine aims to evoke a different Bordeaux commune. The
Merlot-based La Muse is inspired by <b>Pomerol</b>; Cabernet Franc-centric Le Désir is
a <b>St.-Emilion</b> follower, while the Cabernet Sauvignon-based La Joie takes
<b>Pauillac </b>as its benchmark.<o:p></o:p></div>
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But comparisons with Bordeaux are little used now; these are Sonoma wines. <b>Monique
Seillan</b>, who speaks for her husband and comes every year to London with Banke
to show the new vintage, is passionate when she describes the variety of the
terroirs they source from: <b>Alexander Valley, Bennett Valley, Chalk Hill </b>and<b>
Knights Valley</b>. “Everything we plant is mountain land,” she says. “There are 32
different types of soil, which is more than most of Bordeaux combined.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
High-altitude Sonoma, with its dozens of orientations and
complex soils, can produce wines of great sophistication. And in 2012, they
were blessed with a winning vintage, it appears. Banke herself adores the
vintage. “It’s like coming back to California after [the cool and difficult]
2011. “It was wonderful on every level. There was heat, but not too much, the
acidity and the tannic structure are perfect. Sonoma 2012 is like Bordeaux 2005.”
However, she insists on keeping the prices stable. “I want people to drink
these wines,” she says.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Eg4kErJVYbQygTzSsSBxJ3tnUafiUt9gNGY0hyEpa1Xe4lrMlFmt0Gyjcdf6AblMSuO6NHklQSowsCULzUBg8YZpN_BjfPlWbz2v8UluXWOkBpkuFAIeWdp6FEwFLY7j9EuX6ueHQos/s1600/scarecrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Eg4kErJVYbQygTzSsSBxJ3tnUafiUt9gNGY0hyEpa1Xe4lrMlFmt0Gyjcdf6AblMSuO6NHklQSowsCULzUBg8YZpN_BjfPlWbz2v8UluXWOkBpkuFAIeWdp6FEwFLY7j9EuX6ueHQos/s200/scarecrow.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sense of humour? Scarecrow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The three wines are closely related by terroir and by
winemaker, yet distinct. Panel moderator <b>Patrick Schmitt MW</b> noted the tannins
were a distinguishing feature. “[They] got finer as we moved through the flight,
from the big tannins in La Muse, which is Merlot dominant, to the high but
tight-grained character of the Cabernet-led La Joie, and finally, the extremely
fine chalky nature of the tannins in Le Désir,
which is predominantly Cabernet Franc.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The second flight, featuring La Joie 2005 and the three Napa
wines, was designed to show how Sonoma could be the equal of its celebrated
neighbour. “It just doesn’t have Napa’s reputation,” Bevan said. “But you’re
going to see exciting things coming out of Sonoma.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As well they might. Schmitt (the only non-partisan member of
a panel consisting of Banke, her daughter Julia Jackson, Bevan, JFW's in-house master sommelier Dimitri Mesnard and marketing director Gayle Bartscherer) and the majority of the audience (by a show of hands) agreed that in
terms of power and finesse, brightness of fruit, evolution and balance, La Joie
2005 is not only equal but in some ways superior to the Napa wines. Some mentioned that it
was in the Napa wines they had noted the alcohol for the first time. One person
suggested the<b> Screaming Eagle</b> was “one-dimensional compared to the Joie”. Finally
– and this was a fact not lost on an audience mainly made up of wine retailers
from around Europe – it should be noted that for every bottle of Screaming
Eagle 2005 you can buy 10 bottles of La Joie.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img src="http://www.lepanmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/La-Joie-750-042.jpg" /></div>
The three Verité wines will be available in the US, Europe
and Asia at around $450 a bottle by the end of November.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Verité La Muse, Sonoma County 2012</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Merlot (85%), Cabernet Franc (11%) and Malbec<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
14.5%<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sweet early-summer blackberry nose with iodine, minerality,
spice, leather, violet perfume, dark chocolate. Seductive and coltishly young, on palate depth of briar, freshly-roasted coffee beans with cocoa powder. Sour cherry, violet, black fruit juice, very fresh
ripe powdery tannins. The lovely gauche elegance of youth<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Verité La Joie, Sonoma County 2012</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
14.5%<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
High tobacco notes on nose, then fresh young blackcurrant
with leaf. Toasty sweet roast coffee and cocoa. Lovely tight-grained texture to
the sweet and juicy tannins. Round and voluptuous, mouthfilling acidity with
ripe small damson giving waterfalls of juice, exuberant, unrestrained, with a
length that goes on forever.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Verité Le Désir, Sonoma County 2012</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cabernet Franc (64%) Merlot (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon, and
Petit Verdot<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
14.5%<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dusty sweet nose with hay, lovely quality of freshness and
presence – this is the most precise of the wines, mouthcoating fine chalky
tannin and fresh ripe plum and sweet black cherry fruit, very dark earthy
chocolate, perfumed, notes of truffley forest floor, exotic spice. Both opulent
and elegant, and utterly delicious. The finest of the three<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Verité La Joie, Sonoma County 2005</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc,
Petit Verdot and Malbec<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
14.7%</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bright ruby hue. Wonderful nose brimming with character,
dark fruit, cassis hidden, sweet oak, cedar, snapped nettle stem. Palate
dancing with fruit and sweet tannin, acidity releasing juice, flavours of
coffee with some zest of orange, dry tannins lifted by juice, superb
structure and mouthwatering length, beautifully balanced. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Harlan Estate, Napa Valley 2005</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bordeaux blend<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
14.5%</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dark red with purple rim. Lovely cedary deep old nose,
restrained though very elegant with hints of rot and truffle. High earthy
violet perfume, coffee, black fruit, beautifully silky tannins, mouthwatering
juice, brooding and full-bodied but superb finesse. Very evolved, almost
reaching peak.<br />
<b></b><br />
<b></b>
<b>Scarecrow, Rutherford 2005</b></div>
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<div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
100% Cabernet Sauvignon<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
15.4%<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqA4HvwPjIMX3LPHfRTxOkuLlIzpF_UaTbwBeFjbWhh53L1pjckmBBIiPL1f_ik2CuU4RMX44WW_USNKpV_qAmP-9aV-mUeePX7F4YyM8nK62sD0_8WIsQaV13HFWcQUIz6ccgvjvRXk/s1600/Screaming_Eagle_Winery_and_Vineyards_Logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqA4HvwPjIMX3LPHfRTxOkuLlIzpF_UaTbwBeFjbWhh53L1pjckmBBIiPL1f_ik2CuU4RMX44WW_USNKpV_qAmP-9aV-mUeePX7F4YyM8nK62sD0_8WIsQaV13HFWcQUIz6ccgvjvRXk/s1600/Screaming_Eagle_Winery_and_Vineyards_Logo.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exotic but 1D?: Screaming Eagle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="data:image/jpeg;base64,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" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Very sweet stink of iodine and river mud, crushed violets,
eucalyptus of an almost Barossan pungency, very big, the alcohol noticeably hot
but well integrated considering its port-like heft. Opulent blackberry and
blueberry, very concentrated, tannins fine and suave but unrelieved by juice.
Grand, tending to the monolithic, short on humour or charm<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley 2005</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Cabernet Sauvignon (98%) and Cabernet Franc<o:p></o:p></div>
Rich dark fruit,
black cherry and blackberry, and medicinal flavours, smoky coffee, exotic perfume, tar and cigar tube; tannins dry but releasing generous juice; lovely grainy texture, fine persistent finish<br />
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See also<br />
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/visit-to-screaming-eagle.html">A Vist to Screaming Eagle</a><br />
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/rite-of-passage-verite-takes-its-place.html">Rite of Passage: Verite and the world's first growths</a><br />
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-85799828070059027222015-07-03T02:59:00.000-07:002015-07-07T01:50:03.944-07:00"Are we making money on Bulgaria? Probably not": the ever-optimistic Simon Berry of Berry Bros & Rudd<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>This article first appeared in <a href="https://www.meininger.de/en/wine-business-international">Meininger's Wine Business International</a></i><br />
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It’s fitting that <b>Simon Berry</b>, the chairman of this august
company, should have sent his staff on a training course in communication at <b>RADA</b>, the
equally-august Royal Academy for the Dramatic Arts, where Berry sits on the
board. There is a strong sense of theatre in many British wine companies, and
<b><a href="http://www.bbr.com/">Berry Bros and Rudd</a></b> is no exception.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Widow Bourne's Coffee Scales at Berry Brothers & Rudd" height="221" src="https://londondiaryblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/berry-brothers-coffee-scales.jpg?w=640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No 3, St James's St (note the Widow Bourne's coffee scales)...</td></tr>
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The shop at No 3 St James’s St, Piccadilly, which Berry’s
has occupied since 1698, has a Dickensian charm that would not be out of place
on a film set. Entering the headquarters is pleasantly disorienting. The highly-polished
floor, worn and burnished with the feet of three and a half centuries, creaks
like old ship timbers, and a warm smell wafts up from the cellars. The wine
world loves Berry’s, because of its history, because of its quintessential Englishness, and because in its upstairs rooms it
throws excellent dinners with fabulous wines. When <b>Steven Spurrier </b>ran a 30<sup>th</sup>-anniversary
edition of the <b>Paris Tasting,</b> Berry’s naturally hosted it. <o:p></o:p><br />
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St James’s St is the shop front, as it were. The real business
goes on in Basingstoke, 50 miles away, in an unlovely warehouse in a utilitarian
business park. This is where Simon Berry, 7<sup>th</sup>-generation chairman,
works from a featureless office looking out onto a car park. It’s almost
indecently modest. But such is the potency of this extraordinary company, even
in Basingstoke history seeps through the plasterwork. It’s helped by the lithographs
of the BBR founding fathers on the walls; in conversation Berry constantly
refers to them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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But great age, in a company, is no guarantee of longevity.
BBR would not be where it is today were it not run by businessmen. It would not
be the consistent winner of prestigious awards, and it certainly wouldn’t be
turning over £150m a year. There’s little fusty or old fashioned about BBR. It
was the first wine merchant into Heathrow, running four shops in four terminals
before axing them all in 2006. It launched its first website (under the
auspices of Martin Brown, who went on to start <a href="http://wine-searcher.com/">Wine Searcher</a>) in 1994, before
<b>BBC Online</b> and <b>Amazon</b>. BBR was an early adopter of the online trading platform
model, and <a href="http://www.bbr.com/fine-wine/bbx">BBX</a>, launched in 2010, has sold £60m of wine in 75,000 transactions.
Its education division ran 370 events last year, while the wholesale division
grew nine percent. Berry was responsible for many of these developments, particularly
the ground-breaking website, and all took place on his watch: he has been with
the company in various directorial roles for 30 years, the last ten as
chairman.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://m.basingstokegazette.co.uk/resources/images/2687403/?type=gallery" height="230" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and Basingstoke</td></tr>
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BBR are also publishers, selling 10,000 copies of <b>Jasper
Morris’s Burgundy</b> (they came out with an i-pad version while many publishers were
still working out what to do with the new technology). And they are brewers,
owning 40 per cent of <a href="http://www.anchorbrewing.com/">Anchor Brewing</a> in San Francisco. There have been confident
and far-sighted acquisitions. In 2003 they snapped up the importer <a href="http://www.fmvwines.com/">FieldsMorris and Verdin</a> (netting <b>Vega Sicilia, Au Bon Climat </b>and <b>Ridge</b> at the same
time); four years later came Mistral Wines (<b>Château de Beaucastel, Perrin et
Fils</b>…); in 2012 they bought Bordeaux importer and negociant <b>Richards Walford</b>. There are two royal warrants; <b>Edward VII</b> was
a loyal customer – the liquor <b>The King’s Ginger</b> was mixed especially for him in
1903. There are offices in Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan. Berry Bros and Rudd would
seem to be as solid as a rock.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjvsDgku4jqplRZ08xcMTWjRA_n5cgMKYfXMhBmmyajEWFx2RIyAfkwJeN1yB07itUXJjfnhhpHXXxzV1y2Z6fTu8cFLTql6UA2uaFgbmOm_A6fhyphenhyphenGncrMUQREnUQQpO97G4v0M9JZBoiXvLdQMLZY630BHqw4XmoNu7Hk6ndSqQT-WzM-3Guiv=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjvsDgku4jqplRZ08xcMTWjRA_n5cgMKYfXMhBmmyajEWFx2RIyAfkwJeN1yB07itUXJjfnhhpHXXxzV1y2Z6fTu8cFLTql6UA2uaFgbmOm_A6fhyphenhyphenGncrMUQREnUQQpO97G4v0M9JZBoiXvLdQMLZY630BHqw4XmoNu7Hk6ndSqQT-WzM-3Guiv=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjvsDgku4jqplRZ08xcMTWjRA_n5cgMKYfXMhBmmyajEWFx2RIyAfkwJeN1yB07itUXJjfnhhpHXXxzV1y2Z6fTu8cFLTql6UA2uaFgbmOm_A6fhyphenhyphenGncrMUQREnUQQpO97G4v0M9JZBoiXvLdQMLZY630BHqw4XmoNu7Hk6ndSqQT-WzM-3Guiv=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjvsDgku4jqplRZ08xcMTWjRA_n5cgMKYfXMhBmmyajEWFx2RIyAfkwJeN1yB07itUXJjfnhhpHXXxzV1y2Z6fTu8cFLTql6UA2uaFgbmOm_A6fhyphenhyphenGncrMUQREnUQQpO97G4v0M9JZBoiXvLdQMLZY630BHqw4XmoNu7Hk6ndSqQT-WzM-3Guiv=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="The London Shop" border="0" src="http://sc3.bbr.com/images/banners/london-shop/top-banner-london-shop.jpg" height="105" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Which made the rash of headlines that surfaced two years ago
all the more shocking. “Berry Bros posts £7.3m loss” said the Daily Telegraph
in October 2103. Then, a year later, the Grocer reported BBR was ‘upbeat’
despite its second pre-tax loss, this time of £5.5m. Then there was local
difficulty in China that has resulted in an ongoing lawsuit. BBR is not
commenting on any of the court cases it is or has been involved in, but the
reports in the Hong Kong press make lurid reading. The Apple Daily (Hong’s
Kong’s biggest-selling newspaper, akin to the UK’s Daily Mail), for example,
reported that St James’s street had been mortgaged – a rumour Berry dismisses
with a wave of his hand. Then there are rumours of arrests and misappropriation
of databases. The claustrophobic Hong Kong wine world likes to gossip and the
idea that Berry’s was “in trouble” took hold. <o:p></o:p><br />
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“People I knew who were BBR clients were coming to me and
asking me if it was true, were their wines safe?” one Hong Kong merchant told
<b>Meininger's</b>. BBR stores millions of pounds of wine for its customers. Its
enormous warehouses (capacity 9m bottles) are stacked floor to ceiling with
palettes of the finest wines of the last 200 years, from <b>Haut-Brion </b>to
<b>Screaming Eagle</b>. Two-thirds of BBR clients keep reserve stock here. To doubt
such a company is almost an offence against the natural order.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The basic facts of the case are that BBR is involved in
litigation with its Chinese collaborator of 14 years, <b>ChinaPlus Wines</b>, owned by
the businessman <b>KK Mui</b>. ChinaPlus ran the Hong Kong division of BBR under a ‘marketing
and distribution agreement’, with veteran Bordeaux buyer <b>Simon Staples</b> in
charge and KK Mui as chairman. The dispute, about the exact nature of the
agreement, is dragging on and could last another few years yet, Berry says.
“The Chinese are good at prolonging these things.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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But the headlines and
the fog of rumour in Hong Kong can’t have been helpful. “What went wrong was
that there were some fundamental differences in attitude and expectation. They
were cultural differences on both sides,” is all the diplomatic Berry will say.<o:p></o:p></div>
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All this is happening at the end of a five-year development
plan that has shaken things up across the BBR empire. The programme includes an
extensive re-shuffle of senior staff both in London and Asia, notably with <b>Hugh
Sturges </b>leaving after 12 years as managing director and Staples moving from
Hong Kong to Japan. A new warehouse was built in 2012 in <b>Basingstoke</b>, St
James’s St is being extended. Then there’s Anchor Brewing, the company being
brought for its distribution channels, to sell BBR’s “core boutique spirits”
like <b>No3 Gin</b> and <b>Pink Pigeon</b> rum, as well as to tap into the vibrant craft beer
market.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://www.asianpalate.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Simon-Berry-Berry-Bros-Rudd-Chairman-2.jpeg" height="213" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon Berry, 7th generation chairman</td></tr>
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The plan was kicked off in 2010 with the selling of <b>Cutty
Sark </b>whisky to the <b>Edrington Group</b>, swapping it for Edrington’s <b>Glenrothes
</b>whisky brand. On the surface it looked like an odd deal: Cutty Sark sales in
2010 were £60m, generating profit of £5m, while Glenrothes sales were £3m. The
rationale behind the sale, Berry says, was that Cutty Sark was up against
brands such as <b>Pernod Ricard’s Ballantine’s</b> and <b>Diageo’s J&B</b>, and Berry
didn’t want to compete in that arena. “Glenrothes gave us the ability to do
something pretty good and niche and have a head start.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Since the purchase of Glenrothes, its sales have tripled to
£9m a year. But just as Cutty Sark was sold, the bottom dropped out of the
Bordeaux market. BBR sold £60m of Bordeaux 2010 en primeur, but the 2011, and
all subsequent vintages brought in a fraction of that. It must have been quite
a hit. How are they filling the hole?<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Good question. It only leaves a hole if you don’t think of en
primeur as being a windfall,” Berry explains. BBR never relied on en primeur.
The huge sales of 2009 and 2010 were “the icing on the cake,” he says.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="180" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=c2fa8f68bb1444a7a89ab6ea90d7cfb1&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=36024&attachment=4&save=0&filter=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the warehouse at Basingstoke</td></tr>
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But, he also admits, “we didn’t think there would be three
years when en primeur would be non-existent.” This has pushed back forecasts:
the company now expects to hit profitability in 2017. “We are feeling very
optimistic because we are very aware of the brand. And getting more focussed on
who we want to be.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Berry points to one of his ancestors on the wall. “That man
there, <b>Charles Walter Berry</b>, said the job of the wine merchant is to be the
closest link between the people who make the wine and the people who drink it.
We still believe that our job is to go out and find wine.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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There are 4,000 lines in the wine division. Bordeaux, Rhone,
Burgundy and Italy are deeply and widely represented, and there are the
expected offerings from Lebanon (<b>Musar</b>), California (<b>Dominus, Colgin, Ridge</b> and
their peers). The Spanish list is excitingly dense; there are wines from Jura,
China, Bulgaria, Moldova.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="180" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=c2fa8f68bb1444a7a89ab6ea90d7cfb1&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=36023&attachment=3&save=0&filter=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basingstoke</td></tr>
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BBR keeps eight Masters of Wine on the staff, including
<b>Martin Hudson</b>, apparently known as “our Captain Kirk”, whose brief is to boldly
explore the final frontier of wine – his are the Eastern European offerings.
This again is quite in keeping: BBR was the first to permanently stock a
mainland Chinese wine, the<b> 2008 Chateau Changyu Moser XV </b>from Ningxia. They nurture
talent: <b>Alvaro Palacios, Benjamin Leroux, Giovanni Rosso</b> among others, have all
been championed by the firm. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“Tracking the wine regions of the future is a minor but
crucial part of increasing customer choice,” Berry says. But aren’t they
spreading themselves thin already – Bulgarian wines can’t bring in much? “Are
we making money on Bulgaria? Probably not, but that’s the advantage of being a
family company. We don’t have shareholders to answer to and we don’t have to go
about saying the only thing we have to do is make money.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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But there is tacit acknowledgement that a new focus has to
be found. When asked what that might be, Berry lists the strengths of the
company: “Education is incredibly strong; gifting – the same bottle of wine
looks very different in a Tesco’s bag than a BBR bag; wine and spirits;
wholesale and retail, the website, brokerage.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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The longer the list, the more difficult it is to pin down
the USP. Perhaps it’s Berry himself, whose relentless optimism and old-fashioned
charm inform the company. He likes to
take the long view, which you can do if you’re not answerable to shareholders.
The Japan office, for example: “There are people who say you can’t make money
in Japan, but it’s an incredibly sophisticated market. It sells more Burgundy
than Bordeaux for example. As a family business we have the luxury of saying,
‘this is a market that takes a long time. How much do we have to change to make
it work?’ There is a fit there somewhere.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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He could well go by the motto, “We shall find the key.” BBR
can seem over-ambitious – building four outposts in Heathrow for example – but it's
dynamic and interesting, full of surprises. And drama of course. Behind
that elegant shop front there’s some pretty serious activity going on. The
world would be a poorer place without Berry Bros and Rudd.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsc3.bbr.com%2Fimages%2Fbanners%2Flondon-shop%2Ftop-banner-london-shop.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjvsDgku4jqplRZ08xcMTWjRA_n5cgMKYfXMhBmmyajEWFx2RIyAfkwJeN1yB07itUXJjfnhhpHXXxzV1y2Z6fTu8cFLTql6UA2uaFgbmOm_A6fhyphenhyphenGncrMUQREnUQQpO97G4v0M9JZBoiXvLdQMLZY630BHqw4XmoNu7Hk6ndSqQT-WzM-3Guiv=" -->Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-52436965216837435322015-07-01T08:12:00.003-07:002015-07-01T08:17:13.577-07:00Bordeaux 2005 Ten Years On<b>Robert Parker </b>has just published his "10 years on" scores for Bordeaux 2005. Having loved it at en primeur, his in-bottle scores in 2008 were disappointing and - according to Miles Davis of Wine Asset Managers - caused "bewilderment" in the wine trade for his "continued belief that the wines from the Medoc in 2005 are not in any way special."<br />
<br />
You can read Davis' full report <a href="http://www.wamllp.com/2015/07/has-the-time-come-to-just-ignore-parkers-view-of-the-2005-medocs/">here</a> and below, my report from the <a href="http://www.bordeauxindex.com/">Bordeaux Index</a> <b>Ten Years On </b>tasting in February this year.<br />
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<h3>
Highly lauded 2005 Bordeaux stands the test of time</h3>
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(<i>This article was first published on <a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/highly-hyped-2005-bordeaux-stands-test-time/">Zesterdaily.com</a>)</i></div>
<br />
The 2005 vintage in Bordeaux was superlative in so many ways. The weather was a winemaker’s dream: a benign spring gave way to a hot — but not too hot — summer, with hardly any rain. What fell, fell at the right time. That led into an autumn so deliciously mellow that vignerons could amble into the vineyards and pick perfectly ripe grapes whenever they chose. The grapes were small, intensely flavored and with thick skins.<br />
<br />
Last month, a decade past that dream season, the 2005s shone at the “Ten Years On” tasting at the London wine merchant Bordeaux Index.<br />
<br />
From the first tastings in spring 2006, everyone loved it. Consider what they said then:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/wine-after-robert-parker/">Robert Parker</a>, the formidable founder of The Wine Advocate and its influential 100-point wine rating system, thought it “brilliant … one of the most singular years of the past five decades.” The British heavyweights – wine critic and journalist <a href="http://www.mastersofwine.org/en/meet-the-masters/profile/index.cfm/id/59b3a043-5e4b-e211-a20600155d6d822c">Jancis Robinson</a>, <a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/first-female-master-of-wine-in-west-liz-thach/">MW</a>, and Decanter magazine consultant editor Steven Spurrier – were bowled over. Simon Staples, the epicurean Bordeaux director for London-based wine merchant Berry Bros and Rudd, said he was “speechless.”<br />
<br />
<br />
“It was a truly extraordinary year,” veteran <a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/bordeaux-primeurs/">Bordeaux wine</a> merchant Bill Blatch said in the <a href="http://bordeauxgold.com/">report</a>he publishes after every vintage. “Easy to manage, without complications, and the almost permanently fine weather ended up by providing a wine of most unusual concentration.”<br />
Now, as then, 2005 was a very good year<br />
<br />
In January, at the Ten Years On tasting, I found that the 2005s were simply delightful, with succulent, rich, seductive fruit, and acidity that dances on your tongue. The wines are pure, but complex. A cornucopia of blackberry, cassis and red fruit is tempered with minerality and spiciness, then high notes of parma violet and florality.<br />
<br />
There are some clumsy wines — the Merlot in Saint-Émilion was very ripe, with high alcohol and big tannins — and some wines have developed an oaky dryness that won’t sweeten. But they are few and far between.It’s as much a pleasure to describe them as taste them. Every wine of note is underpinned by powerful tannins that give it a structure that will ensure long aging — in some cases, for decades.<br />
<br />
Unless you’re very unlucky, if you pick a 2005 off the shelf, you’re unlikely to be disappointed.<br />
A pricey caveat<br />
<br />
The only fly in the ointment is price. Bordeaux knew it had something good, and the first generation of Asian millionaires were beginning to get a taste for fine wine, very expensive fine wine. The 2005 was the first Bordeaux vintage that launched its wines into the stratosphere of luxury goods. The top wines are very expensive. At the very top, Petrus is more than $4,000 a bottle, and the dozen top properties — Lafite, Mouton and their fellow <a href="http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-topics/bordeaux-growth-wine-guide/">first growths</a>, then Cheval Blanc, Ausone and a few others — are never less than $1,500.<br />
<br />
But that needn’t concern us. The joy of a really wonderful vintage is its consistency.<br />
<br />
There’s an old saying: “In a great vintage, search out the lesser estates, and in a lesser vintage go for the great estates.” It’s never been truer than in 2005. You don’t need to spend three months’ wages on the great chateaux. At every level, from $30 Cru Bourgeois to the humbler Medoc <a href="http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/1855-bordeaux-classification/guide-to-fifth-growth-bordeaux-chateaux-and-its-wines/">fifth growths</a>, there are some beautiful wines to be found.<br />
<br />
If I had to choose one region in a vintage studded with gems, I’d say the wines of the little Médoc commune of Saint-Julien are most consistently lovely. Below are my top picks from 2005, for the priciest and for the <a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/bargains-in-bordeaux/">best value from Bordeaux</a>:<br />
Two top-10 lists from Bordeaux 2005<br />
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Prices are the average per bottle, excluding tax. All wines are available widely at retail.<br />
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<h4>
Top 10, Money No Object</h4>
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<b>1. Château Petrus, Pomerol, $4,986</b><br />
<a href="http://zesterdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Slide-7-Petrus-2005.jpg"><img src="http://zesterdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Slide-7-Petrus-2005-580x387.jpg" /></a><br />
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<i>Château Petrus 2005 is only for the deep of pocket at nearly $5,000 a bottle. Credit: Adam Lechmere</i><br />
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Discreet smoky nose leading to powerful blackberry, black cherry and minty, spicy tar on the palate. Dry length releasing fresh gouts of juice. Drink 2020-2040+<br />
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<b>2. Château Lafite Rothschild, 1st Growth, Pauillac, $1,461 </b><br />
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The bright, lifted blackcurrant and blackberry fruit is sweet and fresh, the tannins ripe, the acidity mouthwatering, the whole complex, charming, assured. A triumph. Drink 2020 to 2040+<br />
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<b>3. Petit Mouton, Pauillac $233</b><br />
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Plum skin aroma, then palate has multiple strands of juiciness through the tannins, intense and vibrant sour mash plum. Minerality and power. Drink 2018 to 2030+<br />
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<b>4. Château Pontet Canet, 5th Growth, Pauillac, $188 </b><br />
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Sweet and savory, bacon with plum skins, very fresh and open, discreet powerful tannins. Linear, classic, confident. Drink 2018 to 2040+<br />
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<b>5. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5th Growth, Pauillac, $135</b><br />
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Savory nose with minerality, pencil lead, very linear and precise, very fresh, essence of blackberry and damson, fine sophisticated length. Drink 2018 to 2035+<br />
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<b>6. Château Léoville Las Cases, 2nd Growth, Saint-Julien, $397 </b><br />
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Fresh, savory, bacony nose, tannins holding blackberry, cassis and coffee flavors in an iron grip; restrained, fruit releases juice, fills the palate. Very fine. Drink 2018 to 2040+<br />
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<b>7. Château Palmer, 3rd Growth, Margaux, $383</b><br />
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Very dark in hue and viscous. Discreet perfumed violet nose, incredibly subtle but exotic, lovely weight, constant interplay of dryness, juice, tannins and acidity. Drink 2017 to 2040+<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>8. Château La Lagune, 3rd Growth, Ludon, $102</b><br />
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Lovely complex savory nose, bramble and truffle, crushed coffee beans, superb opulent sweetness. Palate fresh and perfumed with secondary flavors of dusty rose petals and elegant decay. Tannins dry and dissolving to juice. Drink 2017 to 2035+<br />
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<b>9. Château-Figeac, Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé, $172</b><br />
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Restrained sour black fruit, fresh-picked plum and hints of sloe. Closed, brooding and tannic. A keeper. Drink 2020 to 2040+<br />
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<b>10. Château Calon-Segur, 3rd Growth, Saint-Estèphe, $123</b><br />
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Nose very restrained, closed, palate with (at first) dry, austere tannins. Then classic briar fruit, tannins become silky. Very pure, arrow-straight acidity shows how this will mature. Masterful finesse. Drink 2018 to 2040+<br />
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<h4>
Top 10 best value</h4>
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<b>1. Château Poujeaux, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis, $53</b><br />
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Violet perfume and sweet briar. On the palate damson and cedar, sour plum with cloves. Mouthwatering acidity, soft length. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>2. Château du Tertre, 5th Growth, Margaux, $79</b><br />
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Sweet sugared damson and plum with perfume on nose. Palate very open and fresh with lovely tobacco and truffle, tannins releasing great gouts of juice. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>3. Les Pagodes de Cos, Saint-Estèphe, $62</b><br />
<a href="http://zesterdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/CosdEstournel.jpg.jpg"><img src="http://zesterdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/CosdEstournel.jpg-580x386.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Château Cos d’Estournel. Credit: Credit: Cos d’Estournel</i><br />
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Cos d’Estournel’s second wine is often more restrained than its big brother. Lovely meaty peppery nose, hint of violet perfume on palate with herb, restrained. Drink 2018 to 2040+<br />
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<b>4. Château Gloria, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Julien, $70 </b><br />
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Bacon savory nose with hint of old velvet tapestry. Confident, juicy uncomplicated weight, plum and damson fruit , very nice length, good balance. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>5. Château Talbot, 4th Growth, Saint-Julien, $79</b><br />
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Rich mineral, savory nose with great charm. Defined blackberry and coffee, discreet, old-fashioned like the chateau itself, tannins dry but dissolving to sweetness. Drink 2015 to 2030<br />
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<b>6. Château Les-Ormes-de-Pez, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estèphe, $59</b><br />
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Fresh peppery notes on nose – very fine open juicy acid on palate, fresh, uncomplicated. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>7. Château Malartic-Lagravière, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan, $82</b><br />
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Very savory beef-stock nose with ripe plum. Tannins release juice and sour-sweet plum and damson flavors. Fresh, defined, not opulent, but fine. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>8. Château Langoa-Barton, 3rd Growth, Saint-Julien, $85</b><br />
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Fresh sugared blackberry, savory mineral undertones, open and fresh with such suave tannins and juice on the finish. Very fine length. Drink 2015 to 2025+<br />
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<b>9. Château Potensac, Cru Bourgeois Médoc, $47</b><br />
<br />
Perfumed briar and tobacco nose. Fine, fresh, mouth-watering acidity and bright cassis. Grainy grip to tannins, juicy and opulent. Drink 2015 to 2020+<br />
<br />
<b>10. Domaine de Chevalier, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan, $105</b><br />
<br />
Rich creamy nose, blackberry compote, truffle, licorice. Palate develops fine damson, violet perfume and fresh acidity. Delicate tannins with dry grip. Incredible quality for the price. Drink 2017 to 2030+<br />
<br />
<a href="http://zesterdaily.com/drinking/highly-hyped-2005-bordeaux-stands-test-time/">Zesterdaily.com</a></div>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-29053451104674228552015-06-23T13:46:00.001-07:002015-06-23T14:01:46.382-07:00"Only Ribolla can express the soul of this terroir..." Josko Gravner of Collio<div style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">
Many winemakers claim they make wine only to please themselves. It implies their craft is an art, unsullied by the grubby realities of the market; quite often, they are speaking nonsense. When <b>Josko Gravner</b> says it, you understand exactly what he means.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josko Gravner and his daughter Mateja Gravner</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">Gravner has a formidable reputation both locally and internationally. He took over his father's winery in the </span><b style="font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">Collio </b><span style="font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">region of </span><a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-friuli-venezia+giulia" style="color: #154bca; font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px; text-decoration: none;"><b>Friuli</b></a><span style="font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">, high on the Italian-Slovenian border, some 30 years ago. By his account, he started work in the vineyards when he was 14, and was put in charge of the winery when he was 18. His father's watchword was "Quality </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.3999996185303px; line-height: 18.7199993133545px;">not quantity … but I was young, and I told him that I was going to find quality and quantity. I can still see him looking at me and saying: 'Try it, and see if you succeed.'"</span></div>
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<a href="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=32d6dd9a18ca48e0870b01b14dab1f66&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=35583&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=32d6dd9a18ca48e0870b01b14dab1f66&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=35583&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Read the full article on <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/06/gravner-takes-the-selfish-approach-to-wine">Wine Searcher</a></div>
<br />Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-69958071736943186272015-05-29T04:21:00.000-07:002015-05-29T04:45:26.683-07:00The Valley of the Rhône is a rockin' and a rollin'<i>This article, with different images, appears in the current issue of <a href="https://www.meininger.de/en/wine-business-international">Meininger's Wine Business International</a></i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Image result for jumpin jack flash jagger singing" src="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT7b8T53cFs-8I_BD2xNk7ZMkmdwrHdGIueOwWBL7MqvBKK0EI" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jumpin' Jack Flash... but does Jagger<br />
drink Condrieu?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
“I was BORN in crossfire hurriCANE,”<b> Yves Gangloff</b> of
Condrieu howled into the microphone as his band kicked off one of the
after-parties of the peripatetic wine fair that is <b>Découvertes en Vallée de Rhône</b>.
Music is a key part of this extraordinary few days, an odyssey of tastings,
discussions, dinners, seminars, masterclasses and “vigneron-rocker” evenings,
all in the 250km vinous playground that is the Rhône valley.<br />
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Every wine region in entertainment mode has its peculiar
character. In the <b>Medoc </b>they go for elaborate marquees and black tie dinners,
in <b>Burgundy</b>, confrerie singing and heart-stopping gastronomic marathons for 600
guests. In the <b>Rhône</b>, there’s music, whether rock, rockabilly, or a local brass
ensemble parping away in the background. Meininger’s even caught a particularly
good jazz combo in a dive bar in Avignon. Gangloff’s band, <b>The Grapeful Dead</b>,
consists of Paul Ansellem of Côte-Rôtie’s <a href="http://www.domaine-georges-vernay.fr/en/">Dme Georges Vernay</a>, <a href="http://www.pierre-jean-villa.fr/">Pierre-Jean Villa</a>
of the eponymous northern Rhône domaine, and Gangloff himself on vocals. They
played in Ampuis, to a merry crowd quaffing the finest northern Rhônes from
magnum. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The <a href="http://www.decouvertes-vins-rhone.com/">Découvertes en Vallée de Rhône</a> started in 2001, inspired
by the <b>Grands Jours de Bourgogne </b>tasting that covers that interesting stretch
of land from Chablis to Macon. Now in its
eighth edition, it takes in the 70,000ha of Rhône valley vineyards and
some 5,500 wine companies, from producers to negociants. This year there 620
exhibitors, and nine separate trade fairs, with 2,175 visitors from 31
countries.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.decouvertes-vins-rhone.com/fr/medias/page/phototheque/552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.decouvertes-vins-rhone.com/fr/medias/page/phototheque/552.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Palais des Papes: dramatic but draughty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The organisational power behind the four days of the event
is <a href="http://www.vins-rhone.com/">Inter Rhône</a>, which must – in this particular journalist’s view – be one of
the most proactive and efficient trade organisations in France. Apart from the
knowledgeable and helpful staff, in every centre, from Ampuis to Avignon, there
was a cache of useful literature. One particular booklet, the Encyclopedia of Rhône
Valley Wines, gives a comprehensive overview of the entire AOC and its 171
communes. It is needed: there is nothing more complicated than the hierarchy of
a French AOC and its sub-appellations. With an influx of emerging wine-buying
regions like mainland China, absolute clarity is vitally important, especially
as the Chinese are looking beyond the top, icon crus to more affordable wines.
A newly-fledged junior sommelier from <b>Guangzhou </b>may need all the help he or she
can get when trying to explain the difference between Vallée du Rhône, Village
and Cru.<o:p></o:p></div>
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That said, however, Découvertes is still essentially a
parochial event. Seventy-two per cent of visitors are French, with a smattering
of <b>Americans </b>(4 per cent) and <b>Asians </b>(about 1 per cent). There are no signs
that this demographic is changing, despite the fact that the Rhône’s Chinese
market is growing. Overall exports for Rhône Valley wines fell by some five per
cent in 2014, but in China there was notable growth for appellations such as
Costières de Nîmes and Gigondas. “Rhône is very important for us,” Xi Chen of
Bordeaux-based wine merchant <b>Maison Bordelaise</b> told <b>Meininger’s</b>, adding that he
had come to Découvertes with a groups of Chinese sommeliers “for enjoyment, not
work.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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In his introduction to the Découvertes, <a href="http://www.chapoutier.com/">Michel Chapoutier</a>, the president of Inter Rhône, says one of its major purposes is to “profoundly experience the Rhône Valley.” It
achieves this in two ways. First, and most obvious, is the fact that there is
no better way of understanding a wine region than to stand in its vineyards.
Delegates, therefore, were taken to the top of Hermitage hill, and given a 360°
explanation of the wine region shimmering in bright spring sunshine around them.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shimmering in the sun...on Hermitage hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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Second, and most important, the tastings themselves. From
town sports centres to the magnificent (and draughty) <b>Palais des Papes</b> in
Avignon, every available public space was taken over for tastings. One
important aspect of these events was their democratic organisation: every
producer, whether Jaboulet, Chapoutier or the smallest <i>vigneron-récoltant</i>, was allotted the same space in which to show
their wines. “It’s my socialist disposition,” Chapoutier told Meininger’s. “We’re not here to say who is the biggest,
but to show the range and quality of all producers.” This distinguishes the Découvertes from the
massive trade fairs that have come to dominate the wine landscape – this year,
in the space of a few weeks, producers have to decide between Prowein, VinItaly
and Vinexpo – which are profoundly undemocratic in the sense that the biggest
companies can afford the most elaborate stands, while the smallest may get
overlooked.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“This is much easier than Vinexpo,” vigneron <a href="http://www.domaine-faury.fr/">Lionel Faury</a> of
St Joseph said, “because it’s specialised. Vinexpo is the market for big
volumes and big business, but here you can talk about terroir – it’s for people
who are interested in the Rhône.” At a cost of €500 a day for a stand, it’s not
that much cheaper than an international fair, but the rewards are potentially
greater.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hermitage terraces...Jaboulet?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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From north to south, producers volunteered the same
opinions: Découvertes is valuable because it's localised and specialised, and
it’s an excellent way of doing business. “My goal was to find a Danish
importer,” said Stephane Montez of <a href="http://www.montez.fr/">Dme du Monteillet </a>in Condrieu, “and the first guy to come by this morning was from
Denmark. I have a Swedish importer, so now I just need Finland and Norway.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Another advantage of the localised format was the
opportunity to concentrate on a vintage. The Rhône – in general – escaped the
terrible growing conditions the rest of France endured in 2013. Thousands of
hectares of <b>Grenache</b> were lost to coullure in the south, but in the north a
combination of a cold and wet spring and summer and fine September and October
produced wines that are lighter and fresher than usual. But for many consumers
and buyers, 2013 in France is a vintage to be treated with caution, so
producers welcomed the chance to allow the vintage to show itself. “The most
important is 2013,” Joël Durand of <b>Domaine Eric & Joël Durand</b> told Meininger’s.
“It’s a very particular vintage, there was bad weather, we harvested two weeks
late – it was different. It’s useful to get people to taste it, especially in
St Joseph which is suffering from the reputation of the rest of France.”</div>
<br />
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Découvertes is not all business, though: the many halls and
tasting rooms buzzed with conversation and gossip. Many producers told
Meininger’s they were there simply to meet existing customers and generally
catch up on news. One salient reason for this is the extremely low 2013
harvest. “Our only problem is that we have no wine to sell,” <b>Alain Graillot</b> of
<b>Crozes-Hermitage </b>said. “We’re just here to meet a few customers that we know,
but not develop new business.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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<img height="180" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=973b3bdc0c384f5682ffbc4bac1e4cc5&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=34345&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" width="320" /></div>
</div>
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The 2000-plus journalists, wine merchants and other wine
professionals that attend the tastings have the same attitude. <a href="http://www.helensavage.com/">Helen Savage</a>, a
UK wine writer and educator and Rhône expert, told Meininger’s she has come
several times because “it is so valuable for keeping up to date with what’s
going on”. Wine merchants were much in evidence: <a href="http://www.georgesbarbier.co.uk/">Georges Barbier</a> of the
eponymous London merchant has been coming since the beginning and finds the
present set up a great improvement, he said. “All the tastings used to be in
cellars and there were long queues.” The Barbier family’s prime reason to be
there was to “find something new”, his daughter Victoria said, “and we’ve
discovered Dme Monteillet already. It’s a great event. We’re here for three
days and we’ve found two new wines. It’s got my seal of approval.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Alongside the tastings was a comprehensive programme of
masterclasses and seminars. If the tastings were an unqualified success, the
academic side of Découvertes was less so. It’s a criticism frequently directed
at such events – it sometimes seems as if masterclasses and seminars are tacked
on in order to give the event gravitas and to attract celebrity commentators.
While certain events were well organised and stimulating, others had the
feeling of being hastily-prepared. This may have been a result of the sheer comprehensivity
of the programme – the tiny underground cabaret club Rouge Gorge in Avignon,
for example, had been divided in two in order to host 16 different
masterclasses over two days, one every hour from 9am to 6pm. It was too much,
and several delegates told Meininger’s they found them chaotic.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Other masterclasses were well-prepared and fascinating,
particularly the introduction by oenologist <b>Fabien Ozanne</b> on the terroirs of
the Côte Rôtie in Ampuis (where there was less pressure, and fewer delegates,
than further south). A panel discussion, with <b>Andrew Jefford</b>, <b>Bernard Burtschy</b>
and the prolific consultant <b>Philippe Cambie</b> on Trends in Wine, produced some
thought-provoking arguments, such as on the origins of the rosé boom, the
dangers of following fashions in wine, and the natural wine movement. On the
latter, Jefford provoked laughter with his analogy between the use of sulphites
and underarm deodorant: “If everyone stopped using deodorant then we would all
smell of sweat,” he said. “But that wouldn’t necessarily be a good thing.”</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="225" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=3a4e2c373ec2498886c4f3457a7d0b32&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=34340&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moins sexy... Inter-Rhone ads not as sure-footed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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The Découvertes is, in the end, an exercise in publicity,
something Inter Rhône has always been good at. Leaving aside the fatuous ad
campaigns (“Plus sexy de CameRhône Diaz” was a low point), the Valley’s trade
association is sure-footed. Its campaigns in China have been imaginative,
offering prizes for the best way of expressing the colour red through different
artistic media, whether painting, fashion or theatre. Their latest wheeze is to
get people to make short films and publish them. In all this it consciously
tries to attract a younger audience.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Chapoutier sees attracting the young as essential, and he has announced plans for Rhône
Valley winemakers and their American <a href="http://www.rhonerangers.org/">Rhone Ranger </a>counterparts to sponsor the children
of smaller wine producers on visits to American and Australian wine schools.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="180" src="https://webmail.123-reg.co.uk/ajax/mail?action=attachment&session=3a4e2c373ec2498886c4f3457a7d0b32&folder=default0%2FINBOX&id=34341&attachment=2&save=0&filter=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perhaps not the effect one wants from a foie gras</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
"We have to make winemaking attractive to a new
generation," he said. The children who saw their parents suffering through
the global financial crisis need to be shown “how winemaking can be a
successful business.” The Découvertes is
an example: anyone visiting could not help but be impressed by the upbeat
atmosphere of every hall. Whether teenagers will be as impressed by Yves
Gangloff’s version of<b> Jumpin’ Jack Flash</b>
is another story.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4919588063025303868.post-56613882032810915762015-04-14T08:27:00.002-07:002015-05-08T08:24:55.939-07:00Oslo Syndrome: pimping up Calon-Segur, restraining Cos, and whatever you do, don't mention Michel Rolland at Figeac<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s fascinating to see the way two <b>St Estephe</b> properties,
both wonderful in their own way, have taken different
directions.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I tasted<b> Cos d’Estournel</b> and <b>Calon Segur </b>2014 during en
primeur last month and was mystified by one and delighted by the other.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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I have always loved getting up into the St Estephe badlands
and seeing the warm yellow stone of <a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/whats-going-to-happen-to-calon-segur.html">Calon Segur</a>. There was always something
otherworldly about it – the great
draughty orangery with its stone fireplace was empty of all furniture
apart from an oak table, with the courteous winemaker <b>Vincent Millet</b> standing
behind it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The chateau and the outbuildings were always deserted (I
never seemed to go there but at dusk), the whole place in a state of elegant
decay.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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And the wine. There is a reason Calon is held in such esteem
by the British trade. It has always been luscious and opulent but also was the
most classic, restrained, delicate and fresh of the St Estephes. It made <b>Phelan Segur</b> down the road look brash and rustic, Cos positively meretricious (but more of
that later).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Calon was bought two years ago by an insurance company, <b>Suravenir</b>
(for €200m, my friend <a href="http://www.newbordeaux.com/">Jane Anson</a> reported on Decanter.com). It's lost no time
in sprucing up the property.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLt77YRDLTYylDRQRBW0k95QO0xBInVEoaWZswrySCz6jmVsGb570P9QuJAO5XjdcxjjpQsAPxsijjBqMka5lpeWkiWTtBfYsuPdBvS_v0-VkE33ag-RfclkPmB04tYgGOzDwFhNiQJU/s1600/calon+new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLt77YRDLTYylDRQRBW0k95QO0xBInVEoaWZswrySCz6jmVsGb570P9QuJAO5XjdcxjjpQsAPxsijjBqMka5lpeWkiWTtBfYsuPdBvS_v0-VkE33ag-RfclkPmB04tYgGOzDwFhNiQJU/s1600/calon+new.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calon-Segur - the new tasting room...</td></tr>
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This was my first time at there since the sale. The first thing you notice is that the grounds look rather
more svelte. Did they always have those sculpted bushes? And isn’t the gravel rather deeper
and more groomed than before?<o:p></o:p></div>
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There’s central heating – tropical – and bits of artiness, bottles
sitting atop perspex plinths, and a large oil (a shiny copy) of the founder,
the <b>Marquis of Segur</b>, looking as if he too thinks things have taken a turn for the
worse.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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A new tasting room has been carved out of the great reception
room. There are
fiddly lamps festooned with
fake-industrial wiring, lots of steel and glass furniture, pointless louvres on the windows and other bits of tat. It all
looks very expensive and busy and has all the character and tastefulness of a big city Sheraton.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbAqUkApe2RR1KMNdIprgOtAm__uCXLL-LzZYyJfoBticcsmbNkT80nveoqXoR80gRDu1oiS2422-7gPAnEy3wAIxMVdRIff_QDUHb-bDEgvygRFjPt-YE9fy3Cmha7HLC59c8mt-zac/s1600/20130411_162935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbAqUkApe2RR1KMNdIprgOtAm__uCXLL-LzZYyJfoBticcsmbNkT80nveoqXoR80gRDu1oiS2422-7gPAnEy3wAIxMVdRIff_QDUHb-bDEgvygRFjPt-YE9fy3Cmha7HLC59c8mt-zac/s1600/20130411_162935.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and the old</td></tr>
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All that of course could be forgiven. This is <b>Bordeaux </b>after
all, where sublime wines come from the most pretentious and overblown
surroundings. But the wine has been polished and primped along with the rest of
the place. Calon 2014 is an example of what I’ve dubbed “<b>Oslo Syndrome</b>”. It’s
the sort of wine that a tableful of businessmen at an upmarket restaurant in Oslo, or any
major city of the world, would expect to be pleased with. Oslo Syndrome wines
are polished, with dense and present tannins, well-presented fruit, just the
right amount of acidity. Above they have to taste like a 100-point wine, or
what people imagine a 100-point wine should be.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Calon 2014’s got all this. It’s powerful and ripe and
modern, meaty and juicy, with fine fresh
juice to the mid palate. But it contains 19% merlot in year when merlot is
bursting with fruit, and that gives it its international, ripe red fruit
sheen. Just like the chateau, all the character’s been sucked out of the wine.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Vincent Millet’s explanation: We had to put it in, he said,
because it was excellent and low in alcohol, so it wouldn’t dominate. He said he and their
consultant Eric Boissenot “had a feeling
that this was going to be a great year for Calon.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lots of people agree.<b> James Lawther MW </b>liked it and reminded
me you have to be careful with primeurs. The way a wine tastes depends on the
time of day you go, on your mood, and the dynamic of the group you’re with.
“And nowadays you can tweet your opinion of a wine and it’s gone around the world
in ten minutes.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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How much input would the company have had? One of my fellow tasters has worked with
producers who have been taken over by big finance corporations and he said
there’s normally a good deal of interference. “They love to come down and do
some tasting, have a bit of input into
the blend, feel as if they’re making a difference. It’s like owning a
football team or newspaper.” They are also – of course – very keen on profitability.
<b>Mme Gasqueton</b>, the redoubtable former owner, may have had very different ideas
as to what constituted a healthy bottom line.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Cos goes the other way</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDTxCeuP7QDwC7S-INqd3bbMPwh-s3lLXwM1zD3avzGV8kPBJSCkq2aGK-KCgA3M9hV53QfD4EmMbnREk9VIwdO568TSxailxciHKMlV2wnFDQR-soBn-WZ8GM4MZ9Nj_XciJdHQ9BZxE/s1600/cos+elephant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDTxCeuP7QDwC7S-INqd3bbMPwh-s3lLXwM1zD3avzGV8kPBJSCkq2aGK-KCgA3M9hV53QfD4EmMbnREk9VIwdO568TSxailxciHKMlV2wnFDQR-soBn-WZ8GM4MZ9Nj_XciJdHQ9BZxE/s1600/cos+elephant.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...right to blow its own trumpet: Cos d'Estournel<br />
(pic Panos Kakaviatos)</td></tr>
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So it looks as if Calon is going one way, while Cos is going
the other. For the last two vintages, since Aymeric de Gironde took over from<b>
Jean-Guillaume Prats*</b>, the
wine’s transformed. You no longer turn with relief to <b>Pagodes </b>and <b>Goulée </b>(the
second third wines) as a relief from the exorbitance of the first wine. de
Gironde has a light touch which is exactly in keeping with the current taste
for restraint. Cos 2014 is intense, classic, with a central core of concentrated
blackcurrant fruit, lean and fresh and delicious and absolutely of its place. We felt a similar change in the style last year, but put that down to the impossible vintage 2012, which demanded a lean style. Now it's clear that de Gironde is set on bringing Cos back to its St Estephe roots.<br />
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(* JGP is working for LVMH and getting very excited about an extraordinary project on the China-Tibet border - see my article on <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/05/moet-produces-bordeaux-blend-in-china-s-shangri-la">Wine-Searcher</a>, and Jane Anson's very complete <a href="http://www.decanter.com/news/blogs/anson/588248/anson-on-thursday-vineyards-on-the-roof-of-the-world">blog </a>on Decanter.com. She went there - I didn't)<br />
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“Calon’s always behind the curve,” one of my companions
said. “Now it’s gone all international and fruity when everyone else is looking
for restraint. And Cos is going the other way.”<o:p></o:p><br />
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<b>And if you mention Michel Rolland just once more, I'll scream and scream until I'm sick</b></div>
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Sad, isn’t it? It reminds me of poor old Figeac and the way
they hired <b>Michel Rolland</b> just as <b>Robert Parker</b> retires. You’ll remember that Eric d’Aramon
disliked Parker so much that he set the dogs on him whenever he turned up for a
tasting. Then Mme Manoncourt, after <a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/monsier-figeac-ousting-of-eric-daramon.html">sacking her son-in-law</a> (want a tip? Never marry
the boss’s daughter), was on the phone to Rolland before you could say “microxygenation”,
because as everybody knows he and Parker are thick as thieves, and a few 98-pointers would be a certain path to Grand Cru Classe 'A' status. But as soon as the consultant's signed up at €5000-plus a day, Parker hands over to Neal Martin and Mme
Manoncourt looks pretty damn silly.<br />
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Anyway I asked the energetic winemaker there, <b>Frederic Faye</b>,
a casual question about Rolland and his input (he’s quoted prominently in the 2014
blurb, and Faye isn’t). “Let’s get this straight,” he said, “I’m the winemaker.
Michel is just a consultant.” “So how often does he come?” “Hardly at all, once
or twice a month, maybe less, I don't know, it's not important.” “But he helps with the blend?” “No, he doesn't 'help' with anything. I do the blend. He just
advises.”<br />
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It was all very painful. I just couldn’t bear to ask my next
question, which was, if Rolland is so unimportant to Figeac, why put his name all over the brochure? Indeed, why employ him at
all? After all, there are many properities which manage without him.<o:p></o:p></div>
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See also:<br />
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/whats-going-to-happen-to-calon-segur.html">What's going to happen at Calon Segur</a><br />
<a href="http://adamlechmere.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/monsier-figeac-ousting-of-eric-daramon.html">The ousting of Eric d'Aramon</a><br />
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Adam Lechmerehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07784788827206538951noreply@blogger.com0